City Monument – Jama Masjid on a High Monuments by The Delhi Walla - June 30, 2010June 30, 20105 Allah is closer to Old Delhi rooftops. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] One afternoon The Delhi Walla went knocking around houses in Old Delhi's Matia Mahal asking the residents, "May I please climb to your rooftop?" I was refused. People thought I was crazy. But I only wanted to see how Jama Masjid looks from the roof of a Walled City house. While thak-thaking around, I met a paan-walla who claimed that his terrace faced Jama Masjid's Gate no. 1. Bingo. We became fast friends and after discussing girls, sex and politics, I asked him, "Can I see Dilli from your terrace?" The guy grew somber. He had women in the house and I was a man. I walked ahead hoping to
City Life – Honour Killings in Delhi General Life by The Delhi Walla - June 30, 2010June 30, 20105 Love birds under threat. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] It is no longer happening elsewhere — in Pakistan, Haryana, western Uttar Pradesh or Bihar. The killings of runaway couples belonging to the same gotra (sub-caste) or different caste are now taking place in Delhi. In June 2010, a father allegedly killed his daughter in Swaroop Nagar and a brother killed his sister, her husband and also a cousin in Ashok Vihar. The other day The Delhi Walla was at Select Citywalk mall in Saket and saw a couple holding hands. I wondered about their gotra. The same night in my dream I found myself reading a newspaper's classified section where youngsters look for love in the city. Cute Pretty Girl, We met
City Hangout – Kunzum Travel Café, Hauz Khas Village Hangouts by The Delhi Walla - June 27, 2010June 30, 20106 A pocket-friendly haven. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] T-49. Ground Floor, at Hauz Khas Village (9650702777) – Though there is no crunch of hangouts in this historic village, anyone weary of The Living Room lounge, Gunpowder restaurant, designer boutiques, or the 14th century ruins can find novelty at Kunzum. The principal attraction of the café, which is located close to the entrance of the monument complex, is "Pay what you like" for coffee, tea and cookies. For a cup of well-brewed coffee, The Delhi Walla gave a mere Rs 5. It was embarrassing when I handed the coin to Ajay Jain, the owner, who named this establishment (opened in June, 2010) after a high-altitude mountain pass in the Himalayas. A traveler,
City Food – Julia Child Makes Moongphali Cheewra in Vasundhara Food Julia Child's Delhi by The Delhi Walla - June 25, 2010July 29, 20213 The great chef's life in Delhi. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] Meet the Julia Child of Vasundhara, a suburban neighbourhood beyond the borders of east Delhi. As a girl, Ms Child was a javelin throw star in her school. She also excelled in badminton. After marriage, she interested herself in living room card games and soon became a bridge champion in the local society. Growing more beautiful with years, Ms Child is cherished by friends for her cheeriness and penchant for witty repartees. She delights in surprising her two married daughters by making unannounced visits to them on their birthdays. Ms Child lives with her husband who makes tea for her every morning. And yes, Ms Child cooks. Here is
City Landmark – The Book Shop, Jor Bagh & Khan Market Landmarks by The Delhi Walla - June 21, 2010June 22, 20152 The death and life of a bookstore. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] In my dream, I find myself outside Khan Market's The Book Shop. I was told it had shut down in 2006 and that there's a Swarovski show room in its place. Wrong. Here's the glass door, the racks, the new arrivals, the poetry shelf, the history section, and in the cubicle – the turbaned Mr Kanwarjit Singh Dhingra, aka KD Singh – a bookseller for 38 years. And here's one of his pretty daughters carrying a cup of cold coffee. Suddenly, the ground opens up. The books falls into the void. KD, too. A whipping wind. A blinding light. The dream ends. I'm in a Swarovski showroom! They were right. Khan
City Hangout – Dilli Haat, Aurobindo Marg Hangouts by The Delhi Walla - June 20, 2010December 30, 20106 [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] Delhi's dream village. In a city as disconnected from cowbelt India as Delhi, it is poignant to enter Dilli Haat (opened 1994), the food and craft bazaar spread over six acres and modelled to look like a North Indian village. The entrance plaque has the image of two belles churning milk into butter. Inside, the brick floor, the thatched roofs, the occasional sarangi players and the open sky give one the illusion of being in a haat, or a village fair. Perhaps closest to Mahatma Gandhi’s romantic ideas of the rural life, Dilli Haat is actually the very antithesis of Indian villages, where caste oppression, poverty and hunger rule the roost. Dilli Haat has no
City Style – The Classy Delhiwalla, Kasturba Gandhi Marg Style by The Delhi Walla - June 17, 2010March 11, 20117 Searching for the stylish. [Text and picture by Mayank Austen Soofi] One summer morning while walking down Kasturba Gandhi Marg in Connaught Place, The Delhi Walla was struck by this woman’s appearance. Amid a blur of tight jeans and salwars (no saree though), her blowy jungle-green harem pants stood out as a more sensible hot-day wear. The black colour of her loose cotton kurta, however, seemed odd if beating heat was the intention. The consolation was that it matched with the black print on her pants, which was of handloom silk. More harmonious was the pants’ spotty golden zari work that echoed noiselessly in the woman’s accessories (earrings, bangles, chappals are not clearly visible in the picture above), all of which
Who Do You Think You Are – Sunil Singh Kushwaha, Cricketer General by The Delhi Walla - June 16, 2010June 19, 201010 [Interview and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] The Delhi Walla was climbing the stairs of an apartment complex in Hauz Khas Village when he approached a boy. Who are you? What are you doing here? I’m Sunil Singh Kushwaha. I’m collecting tiffins from these flats. What tiffins? We make food for people living in these flats. In evening, I home-deliver the tiffins. In morning, I come to collect the empty boxes. That’s your job? Yes. No. I’m actually a cook in Soni's dhaba (eatery). I make rotis in the kitchen. You! How old are you? 12 years. How many rotis you make daily? Around 800. How much you get? Rs 2,000. I send it all to my parents through money order. Parents? Where is your home? My village, Bakapur, is in Madhya Pradesh,
City Food – Jalebi, Old & Famous Jalebi Wala Food by The Delhi Walla - June 15, 2010July 8, 20158 Delhi's best jalebi. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] Thick and juicy, it is food porn at its best. Jalebis, the golden-coloured rings of deep-fried maida batter, soaked in sugar syrup, fill the mouth with a warm liquid of such excessive sweetness that modesty blushes in shame. The diabetic may find joy in just looking at its preparation. What Humayun’s Tomb is to Mughal architecture, Old and Famous Jalebi Wala in Chandni Chowk is to jalebis (Rs 250/kg). The legendary establishment (circa 1884; founder: Nemchand Jain) stands at the turning to Dariba Kalan. The big-bellied cook performs live in front of customers. Like a magician, he squeezes out the batter from the hole of a muslin cloth-bag; his hands moving in circles
Mission Delhi – Nitin Chanana, Connaught Place Mission Delhi by The Delhi Walla - June 13, 2010June 24, 20108 One of the one per cent in 13 million. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] Lying on the grass, he is looking up at the sky. There are no stars to be seen yet. The evening’s gathering darkness, however, is bringing the surrounding skyscrapers into closer focus. The tall office buildings, lighting up for the night, are suddenly looking accessible. Nitin Chanana, 23, is searching for a job. The Delhi Walla met him on the park above Palika Bazaar in Connaught Place. He is with a friend. “Delhiwallas are big-time haramis (bastards),” says Mr Chanana. “They all are after each other’s ass. Everyone is selfish. If you ask anyone for directions, they won’t tell you.” Mr Chanana is not saying it in rage,