
City Food – Kebab Stalls, Urdu Bazaar
Delhi’s cheapest kebab destination.
[Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi]
In pre-Partition Delhi, when the Walled City was home to educated and wealthy Muslims (who later went to Pakistan), Urdu Bazaar was a street lined with Urdu-language bookstores. By 2010, most of them have given way to butcheries, chai-khanas and kebab stalls. Fearing that they may give way to other kinds of establishments in the coming decades, The Delhi Walla made a record of the market’s roadside kebab stands – for posterity’s sake.
I wanted to find out what kebabs are on sale? What’s the price? Who were the founders? I ate at every stall.
Urdu Bazaar faces Jama Masjid’s gate number one. I started from the stall next to Rizwan Book Depot and followed the direction of Kasturba Gandhi Hospital. With bare hands, the kebabwallas were casually fiddling with their red-hot iron rods, used for skewering the meat. One young man held a smouldering coal on his palm. Every stand had a table fan, which quickens the roasting time. The kebabs were spicy, smoky, greasy and delicious. The stalls are open daily from 7 pm to 2 am.
Where Urdu Bazaar, Near Jama Masjid, Old Delhi Nearest Metro Stop Chawri Bazaar
Nadeem Chicken Corner
What Chicken Fry (Rs 60 per piece), Fish Fry (Rs 240 per piece), Rumali Roti
Seller Mohammed Nadeem
Founder Mohammed Ahmed
Since 1947
Mohammed Nadeem
Lalu Kababee
What Seekh kebab (Buffalo meat; Rs 5 per piece), Tikka kebab (Buffalo meat; Rs 5 per piece), Beef biryani (Rs 80 per keg; it’s buffalo meat)
Seller Mohammed Habib
Founder Noor Mohammed aka Lalu Kebabi
Since 1980
Mohammed Habib
Beef biryani for Rs 80 per kg
Tajuddin & bros. Kebab and Tikka
What Boti Kebab (Buffalo meat, Rs 5 per piece), Seekh Kebab (Buffalo meat; Rs 5 per piece); Chicken Tikka (Rs 30 per piece)
Seller Tajuddin Kebabi
Founder Mohammed Zaheeruddin
Since 1970
Tajuddin Kebabi
Lalu Kebabi
What Seekh kebab (Buffalo meat; Rs 5), Boti kebab (Buffalo meat; Rs 5), Shami kebab (Buffalo meat; Rs 25 per piece)
Seller Mohammed Imran
Founder Noor Mohammed aka Lalu Kebabi
Since 1970
Mohammed Imran
Al-Nisar Kawabi
What Seekh kebab (Rs 5 per piece), Boti kebab (Rs 5 per piece), Cut roll (Rs 25 per piece)
Seller Mohammed Dilshad Qureshi
Founder Nisar Ahmad
Since 1990
Mohammed Dilshad Qureshi
Mr Quershi’s daredevilry
Ahmad Chicken Corner
What Roast Chicken (Rs 65 per piece)
Founder Arshad Bhai
Since 1998
Ahmad’s birds
Qureshi Kabab Corner
What Chicken kebab (Rs 20 per piece), Beef kebab (Rs 5 per piece; it’s buffalo meat), Beef tikka (Rs 5 per piece; it’s buffalo’s heart)
Seller Mohammed Ershad Qureshi
Founder Abdul Ghani Qureshi
Since 1970
Mohammed Ershad Qureshi
The kebab eaters of Urdu Bazaar
Kebab porn
Delhi’s great kebab street
Not buffalo. Cow my dear cow.