Welcome to The Delhi Walla

You can change this text in the options panel in the admin

Member Login
Lost your password?
Not a member yet? Sign Up!

City Food – Milk Cake, Kucha Ghasi Ram

November 7, 2011
By

City Food - Milk Cake, Kucha Ghasi Ram

Sweeten the senses.

[Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi]

Some mysteries should never be solved. Why ask how the sticky, gooey, toffee-like milk cake is made? Why ruin the romance by disclosing that this luscious sweetmeat, which looks like the surface of a beehive and tastes of ambrosia, is made of nothing but milk and sugar?

The pride of Delhi sweets is sold in almost every sweet shop, but the purity of the full-cream milk used to make it, is what determines its quality. To get the best milk cake in town, you have to step into Kucha Ghasi Ram, a narrow lane near Fatehpuri Masjid in Chandni Chowk.

Facing a hair salon, the hole-in-the-wall Hemchand Ladli Prashad milk shop seems a conspiracy by milk cake lovers to keep the place a secret. There are no chairs, no tables. The shop’s best product is hidden among burfi, rabri, dahi (yoghurt) and chai. The halwai (cook) simmers sugared milk in a huge pot, stirring it for hours. As it start leaving brownish caramelised streaks, the grainy, slushy mixture of half-evaporated milk is transferred into a tray and steamed over a kettle till it sets.

Cut into slices and eaten, milk cake is chewy, and yet fills your mouth with sugary juice.

The wholesome smell of condensed milk engulfs your senses as it slips down your throat. The morsels stick in the crevices of your teeth. Your roll your tongue all around to get them out, and then coax them to melt into nothingness. This is double joy, and you’ve just had your first bite. On the wall of Hemchand Ladli Prashad is a picture of the infant Lord Krishna sucking a cow – he hasn’t yet discovered the milk cake secret.

Where Hemchand Ladli Prashad, near Fatehpuri Masjid Nearest Metro Station Chandni Chowk

Of pure milk

City Food - Milk Cake, Kucha Ghasi Ram

Deep within the street

City Food - Milk Cake, Kucha Ghasi Ram

Much in demand

City Food - Milk Cake, Kucha Ghasi Ram

Krishna’s secret

City Food - Milk Cake, Kucha Ghasi Ram

Family tradition

City Food - Milk Cake, Kucha Ghasi Ram

The geography of a dessert

City Food - Milk Cake, Kucha Ghasi Ram

On sale, in another shop

City Food - Milk Cake, Kucha Ghasi Ram

Be Sociable, Share!

2 Responses to City Food – Milk Cake, Kucha Ghasi Ram

  1. Ru chika on November 7, 2011 at 3:03 PM

    Mouth-watering :)

  2. Akhlesh on November 10, 2011 at 5:33 AM

    Just reading the description makes me take a shot of Novalog.

Sideshow

The Guardian

"The Delhi Walla is a celebration of the food, culture and books of India's capital."

Lonely Planet Discover India

"The Delhi Walla shows an offbeat view of Delhi."

CNNGo

"The Delhi Walla spends his time in Delhi’s most obscure streets looking for endangered chaiwallahs making tea or other cultural touchstones."

The Caravan

"The Delhi Walla is one of the city’s best-known flâneurs."

Time Out Delhi

"The Delhi Walla is a one-man encyclopedia of the city."

Author Khushwant Singh

"The Delhi Walla has the knack of bringing out the unusual from the usual, and presenting the city in a different light."

The Rough Guide to Rajasthan, Delhi and Agra

"The Delhi Walla is an excellent Delhi website with news and views about the city."

The Independent

"The Delhi Walla is the most compelling guide to India’s capital."

DK Eyewitness Travel Top 10 Delhi

"The Delhi Walla is a great website for offbeat views of the city."

The Wall Street Journal

"The Delhi Walla is one of the most insightful guides on life — and food — in India’s capital."

Historian William Dalrymple

"The Delhi Walla is Delhi's most idiosyncratic and eccentric website, and reflects a real love of this great but under-loved and underrated city."

Mail Today

"Perhaps the most compelling and attractive Indian blog is The Delhi Walla blog run by Mayank Austen Soofi."

Write to thedelhiwalla@gmail.com



Monuments

Ad Enquiries

Contact mayankaustensoofi@gmail.com for ad enquiries.

Switch to our mobile site