Old-time love. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] At first glance it’s nothing more than a cement platform beneath a tin shed in Jangpura Extension. But customers turn up at this shed in droves as Gyan deep-fries his famous pakoras — all sorts of them. The physiology of the stall itself exerts an appeal. Gyan sits beside a giant cauldron, filling a giant platter with pakoras which too are gigantic in their own way. He’s sometimes joined in the afternoon by his young sons when they return from school and sit beside him, often with their textbooks. They live in a slum nearby. Many customers are repeats, who’ll just walk in from their homes in the neighbourhood chatting on cellphones, then handpick pakoras while still