The heart of the Walled City. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Old Delhi has all sorts of places you’ll visit when it’s high time to feel good about yourself. Perhaps the stone steps of a good old Jain temple? Another choice is Wali’s Unisex Saloon in Bazar Chitli Qabar that literally exudes calm. Established long ago but renovated only a few years ago, its ambience is personified by the owner himself. Father to a young girl, Waseem Ilahi is always friendly, never intrusive, whose skilled hands move steadily and discreetly. He draws you into quiet conversation without venturing into polarising subjects such as politics that could get patrons worked up. “Seven generations of my family have lived in Delhi,” says the soft-spoken Mr