Snack for all. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] At night, people in Old Delhi are said to feast on dishes like koftas and biryanis—at least in the fanciful imagination of those of us who tend to romanticise about life in the historic quarter. In the morning, the traditionally-inclined might prefer the hefty combination of paya and nihari, but many opt for poori, subzi and halwa. Some, like a charming hotelier couple who live near Jama Masjid, go for porridge and butter toast—they even cover their tea-pot with a made-in-England tea cozy. But between the morning prayers and the breakfast hour, many Walled City dwellers overcome their drowsiness with sweet milky chai, which they usually complement with fen, the hero of our