City Hangout – Ashok Kumar’s Onion-Scented Tea Stall, Gurgaon
House of tea. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The idea of an onion-scented chai might not appeal to all, but it really is delicious. And, for the record, the chai doesn’t taste of onion. The unnamed tea stall…
Home Sweet Home – Impermanent Housing, Vasundhara
Fleeting dwellings. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Vasundhara in Ghaziabad in the Greater Delhi Region is a cluster of residential towers. But this particular housing is too modest. The four homes share a common roof, and this roof…
Our Self-Written Obituaries – Julia Julley’s Butterfly, Varna, Bulgaria
The 244th death. [Text and photo sent by Julia Julley] Nymph in yellow. She lived among flowers and died among flowers. She clearly remembered her past life as a Cinderella – crawling around in an uncomely green rag. Then came…
City Landmark – Everest Tailors, Rajiv Nagar, Gurgaon
The idea of home. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The Millennium City of Gurgaon in the Greater Delhi Region is hundreds of miles away from Nepal, and the closest thing to Kathmandu you can find here might be…
Mission Delhi – Shahji, Fatehpuri Mosque
One of the one percent in 13 million. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] As an ascetic, Shahji—as he introduced himself—has but one main mission in life: meditating alone in an Old Delhi mosque, hours on end. The 80-year-old,…
City Food – Muhammed Afroz’s Bihari Jhaal Moori, Mathura Road
Taste of Bihar. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] No doubt there are even more superior jhaal moori snacks sold elsewhere in town. But Muhammed Afroz’s offerings are unique. Just a year ago he came up with the idea…
Mission Delhi – Ram Lal, Gurgaon
One of the one percent in 13 million. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] It sure is not his most precious possession. It certainly is the most eye-catching. “It’s my guthi,” says Ram Lal, taking out the pouch from…
City Hangout – Anupama Sweets, Kailash Colony
Homely eatery. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Visitors to Delhi who hang around for a few days can’t help noticing all those exotic restaurants in fancy markets and malls offering specialty dishes from around the world, and also…
Mission Delhi – Ram Jeevan, Near Red Fort
One of the one percent in 13 million. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Paan vendor Ram Jeevan is sitting on a pavement near the Red Fort patiently waiting for customers while recalling his long years in Delhi. “I…
Our Self-Written Obituaries – Hetvi Jethwani, IIT Delhi
The 243rd death. [Text and photo sent by Hetvi Jethwani] The self-proclaimed “mad” scientist Hetvi died on her 42nd birthday doing what she loved, lying down in her comfortable hammock, reading. Sadly, death seized her before she could reach the…
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