Delhi’s Proust Questionnaire – Annie Ernaux, Gali Kebabiyan
The parlour confession. [By Mayank Austen Soofi] One of the world’s greatest living authors, French novelist Annie Ernaux is in our city to attend the Delhi Book Fair, in which France is the guest of honour. The 2022 Nobel laureate…
Mission Delhi – Annie Ernaux, Gali Kebabiyan
One of the one percent in 13 million. [Text and photo by Mayank Austen Soofi] Here she is, a few hours after travelling from Paris in an Air India flight, walking in Purani Dilli, between Matia Mahal and Jama Masjid,…
City Hangout – Extinct & Existing Bookstores, Urdu Bazar
The Lajpat nobody knows. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Urdu Bazar is a terrifyingly congested block of human cacophony and traffic tumult. Tolerated only because it hosts a picturesque part of the Walled City (Jama Masjid gate no….
City Food – “Factory” Cream Rolls, Sher Khan’s Glass Case
[Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Chasing a vendor. Evening, half past seven. The glass case almost empty of cream rolls. Only 10 left. Sher Khan had started at eight in the morning with 300 cream rolls. But no…
City Season – Semal Blossoming, Yamuna Bank and Around Town
On the brief spring. [Text and photo Mayank Austen Soofi] You spot the tree in the morning commute. It looks like a thing at the cusp of loveliness. You don’t make much of it. Being busy, you carry on with…
City Walk – Gali Kebabiyan, Old Delhi
The lane of kebab makers. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] People step into this lane for nihari and biryani, for burra and korma—all to be had at the “world-famous” Karim’s restaurant. Those in the know wade deeper, to…
City Food – Ram Laddu, Lajpat Nagar & Gurgaon
Snack pilgrimage. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Is the best Paris-Brest in Paris? Is the best Mysore masala dosa in Mysore? Is the best Modi Nagar ki mashoor danedar shikanji in Modi Nagar? To get the answer, you…
Mission Delhi – Kanhaiya, Shanti Niketan
One of the one percent in 13 million. [Text and photo by Mayank Austen Soofi] He is from Bhagwan Ram’s birthplace, but is named after Bhagwan Krishna. Kanhaiya shrugs. “My name was given to me by my mata-pita.” An Ayodhya…
City Home – Roommates in Ruin, Galli Chooriwallan
Roomies, a portrait. [Text and photo by Mayank Austen Soofi] So dark, so musty. It’s like a cave. As the eyes adjust to the dimness, this mysterious world exudes even more mystery. The jagged walls—unpainted, bare— are of long-ago lakhori….
City Landmark – Chauhan Bros. Stationery & Hosiery, Paharganj
The small shop around the corner. [Text and photo by Mayank Austen Soofi] The white hoarding, the blue and red letters painted on this hoarding, the yellowing shutters. All these adds to the shop’s engrossing ambiance. Merely looking at it…
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