City Monument - Hauz Khas Ruins, South Delhi

City Monument – Hauz Khas Ruins, South Delhi

Verses in stone. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The modest stone gateway opens into a grassy spread. Unknown tombs and domed chhatris lie speckled across the garden. The lawn gives way to even more ruins spreading out into…

City Monument - Mini Qutub Minar, Uttam Nagar

City Monument – Mini Qutub Minar, Uttam Nagar

The hyperlocal version. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] There is no Qutub Minar but Qutub Minar. Or is there? Well, there’s a second Qutub Minar in Delhi — quite far away from its world-famous namesake in Mehrauli. The…

City Monument - St James' Church, Kashmere Gate

City Monument – St James’ Church, Kashmere Gate

Delhi’s Old Testament. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] One of the capital’s great monuments built by the British is not in the British-built Lutyens’ Delhi. It lies beyond the limits of the Walled City, in Kashmere Gate. St…

City Monument - Tughlakabad Fort, South Delhi

City Monument – Tughlakabad Fort, South Delhi

The grand desolation. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Red Fort is nothing to it. Seriously. This fort is grander. How to describe it? Think frozen music. The Tughlakabad Fort’s sloping rubble-filled outer walls are spread out on a…

City Monument - The Church of Epiphany, Civil Lines, Gurgaon

City Monument – The Church of Epiphany, Civil Lines, Gurgaon

A Colonial-era relic. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Certainly not, you can’t miss tomorrow’s service! What would people say? Especially Mrs Bennet and her five daughters, always so eager to gossip. The Church of Epiphany in Gurgaon is…

City Monument - A Lesser Known Baoli, Matia Mahal

City Monument – A Lesser Known Baoli, Matia Mahal

A step-well around the corner. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] With a mere 380 years behind it, Old Delhi isn’t all that old. (Sorry to shatter your illusions) Centuries before the Walled City was founded, it still had…

City Monument - Bedil's Tomb, Near Purana Quila

City Monument – Bedil’s Tomb, Near Purana Quila

The Bedil pilgrimage. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Torn, faded silk fabrics are lying like shrouds upon the ruined graves, sheltering these relics from rain, sunshine and dust. And in one corner lies a grave with a roof….

City Monument - A Lesser-Known Mosque, Safdarjang’s Tomb

City Monument – A Lesser-Known Mosque, Safdarjang’s Tomb

A side relic. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] It’s hard to put your finger on it, but there’s an ineffable sense of sadness about Safdarjang’s Tomb—which isn’t always the case with memorials for the dead. One of the…

City Monument - The Ascent of Humayun's Tomb, Central Delhi

City Monument – The Ascent of Humayun’s Tomb, Central Delhi

The top of the monument. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The place is very breezy, and so quiet that you can hear the kites flapping their feathers. For a brief moment, you may even dream of getting a…

City Monument - A Beautiful Unknown Tomb, Mehrauli

City Monument – A Beautiful Unknown Tomb, Mehrauli

The aspects of the unknown. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The Delhi Walla has found the most exquisite grave in Delhi and it doesn’t belong to any shehenshah or famous fakir. To some, it may just be chipped…