City Monument - General Shah Nawaz Khan's Grave, Old Delhi

Hero resting here. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Among those who care for graves of historical people, it is common knowledge that the shrine of Sufi saint Hazrat Sarmad Shahid lies between the Jama Masjid and the Red…

Julia Child in Delhi - Susanna Di Cosimo's Sarson da Pizza, Gurgaon

The great chef’s life in Delhi. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] She has married thrice—to the same man. Susanna Di Cosimo, 42, came to visit our motherland from her Italy in 2011, and two years later settled in…

Home Sweet Home - A Mansion for Labourers, Mohalla Qabristan

Old house, new home. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] It looks like a museum. Nothing like this old-fashioned balcony exists anywhere else in the immediate vicinity. What is it like to actually live in this building? It turns…

Mission Delhi - Monty, Roshan Pura

One of the one percent in 13 million. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] His face is invisible. Even his black mask cannot be seen because of the tall tower of pink cotton candies—each wrapped in a separate plastic—that…

City Monument - Ruined Graves, Lodhi Garden

Links to past. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Squirrels, a great many of them, are prancing about the dusty stone slabs. Water pitchers—probably kept for birds—are reflecting the cold cloudy sky. Dry leaves litter the ground. And there’s…

City Landmark - The So-Called "Mayank Austen Soofi's Attic", Hauz Khas Village

A new AirBnB destination. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] It was a small room, just enough for one person to co-habit with some books—ok, many books. Its window enjoyed a direct view of Emperor Feroze Shah Tughlak’s Tomb….

City Hangout - Cafe Karvaan, Abul Fazal Part 1

The river-side haven. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Is it Volga or Thames, Nile or Seine? What is this watery world? With bits of dry land jutting out here and there, the landscape looks like a vast archipelago….

Mission Delhi - Lal Babu, On the Road

One of the one percent in 13 million. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] It’s freezing at the moment, around 8.30 pm. “You should see the roads at midnight, when it’s totally foggy,” mutters auto rickshaw driver Lal Babu,…

Mission Delhi - Bhoora, Turkman Gate

One of the one percent in 13 million. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Histories and havelis, kebabs and tikkis, bazars and lanes. People flock to Old Delhi from all over for these attractions. But nobody comes here to…

Delhi's Bandaged Heart - A Poem Written During the Metro Commute, Vikaspuri

Poetry in the city. [By Mayank Austen Soofi] She is an engineer in a Noida-based multinational, but has been working from her home in Vikaspuri since March last year, because of you-know-what. But Jyoti Vij Ahuja is also a writer,…