City Travel – Pashupatinath Temple, Kathmandu

The Nepal diary. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The devotees were sitting on the stone stairs in groups of families and friends — some were talking to each other, others were quiet. They were looking down at the…

City Secret - Blood Letting, Rahat Open Surgery

Old Delhi cure. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Kamini Khatoon lives in Amroha, a small town near Delhi. She was suffering from body ache for many years. Ms Khatoon consulted doctors, visited hospitals, tried allopathic and homeopathic medicines….

City Moment - The Rat's Funeral, Jorbagh

The beautiful Delhi instant. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] One afternoon The Delhi Walla attended the funeral of a rat in the Central Delhi neighbourhood of Jorbagh. “Our dog attacked him,” the woman told me. She lives in…

City Food – Iftar Snacks, Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya’s Dargah

Breaking the fast. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The platter consists of a jalebi, a samosa, a litchi, a banana, a sliced piece of water melon or papaya, and a glass of Roohafza sharbat. This food is served…

Delhi’s Proust Questionnaire – Samyak Misra, Hauz Khas Village

The Proustian self-introspection. [By The Delhi Proustians] The Proust Questionnaire represents a form of interview that owes its structure to answers given by French novelist Marcel Proust, the author of In Search of Lost Time, at two birthday parties that…

City Season – A Mid-July Rain, Elma’s Bakery and Other Places

The afternoon shower. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] One afternoon in July 2013 The Delhi Walla was having green tea at Elma’s Bakery in Central Delhi’s Meharchand Market when it started to rain. I immediately called photographer Raghu…

Mission Delhi – 75 Faces, Around Town

The faces of Delhi. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] A city is not made by its buildings and bazaars, but by its people. That’s why The Delhi Walla started the Mission Delhi project in 2009. My mission is…

City Hangout – Government Sunder Nursery, Mathura Road

The magical greenhouse. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] From October to March, it is a country of roses, tulips, poppies and dahlias – all available at bargain basement prices. Government Sunder Nursery – Sunder means ‘beautiful’ in Hindi…

City Faith – Sehri Feast, Gosht Walli Pahari

Feasting and fasting in Ramzan. [By Mayank Austen Soofi] The kaleji and korma are done. The khajla has been left to soak in milk. As her daughter-in-law Sumaiya slices onions for the salad, Rashida Qureshi, 50, adds rice to yakhni….

Photo Essay – A Suitable Girl for Vikram Seth, Around Town

The woes of a millionaire novelist. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Delhi-based novelist Vikram Seth was to submit the manuscript of his new novel A Suitable Girl to his publisher in June 2013. He hasn’t – according to…