City Landmark – Red Fort, Old Delhi

The necessary ruin. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] There is nothing inside the imposing ramparts of Red Fort, or Lal Quila, except a few gardens, a couple of crumbling halls, and two museums with spotty paintings and antique…

Pakistan Diary – Travels in My Country

  The Delhi Walla in the fatherland. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] The Delhi Walla traveled for nine days in Pakistan. I consider it my own country in a way that’s difficult to understand by those whose comprehension…

Pakistan Diary – T2F, Karachi’s Cool Cafe

The Delhi Walla in the fatherland. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] Most regulars to The Second Floor, or T2F, are young and speak with an American accent. If this were some other city in some other country, T2F…

Pakistan Diary – Reading Chick Lit in Karachi

The Delhi Walla in the fatherland. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] Pakistanis love reading Chick Lit as much as Delhiites. The Delhi Walla discovered it while attending the two-day Karachi Literature Festival. Held on on March 21-21, it…

Pakistan Diary – At Home in Lahore

The Delhi Walla in the fatherland. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] In Lahore, The Delhi Walla pretended to be a Lahori. I travelled in an auto rickshaw. I rode on a bike. I boarded a city bus. As…

Pakistan Diary – The Dancing Girl of Lahore

The Delhi Walla in the fatherland. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] Heera Mandi, Lahore’s fabled red light district, is almost dead. Most dancing establishments have shut down. The courtesans no longer pretend to be mere dancers. Operating as…

Pakistan Diary – The Karachi Kartography

The Delhi Walla in the fatherland. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] With its sultry days and breezy evenings, Karachi is cosmopolitan like Bombay, class-driven like Delhi and edgy like Baghdad. It is rich, poor, good, bad, beautiful, ugly,…

Pakistan Diary – Jinnah’s Mausoleum, Karachi

The Delhi Walla in the fatherland. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] Mazar-e-Qaid. Pakistan’s founder Mohammad Ali Jinnah lies buried here. The Delhi Walla is accompanied by Asim Ghani, a Delhi-born Karachiwalla. On the eve of Pakistan’s first Independence…

Pakistan Diary – Is Karachi Unsafe?

The Delhi Walla in the fatherland. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] It is 7 am. The room is lined with old paperbacks. Tiger, the house dog, is looking out of the grill into the garden. Rosemary, the maid,…

Pakistan Diary – The First Karachi Literature Festival

The Delhi Walla in the fatherland. [Text and picture by Mayank Austen Soofi] Reeling under unending terror attacks, Pakistan is all set to host its first major literary event on March 21, 2010. The budget of Karachi Literature Festival is…