Delhi’s cheapest kebab destination.

[Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi]

In pre-Partition Delhi, when the Walled City was home to educated and wealthy Muslims (who later went to Pakistan), Urdu Bazaar was a street lined with Urdu-language bookstores. By 2010, most of them have given way to butcheries, chai-khanas and kebab stalls. Fearing that they may give way to other kinds of establishments in the coming decades, The Delhi Walla made a record of the market’s roadside kebab stands – for posterity’s sake.

I wanted to find out what kebabs are on sale? What’s the price? Who were the founders? I ate at every stall.

Urdu Bazaar faces Jama Masjid’s gate number one. I started from the stall next to Rizwan Book Depot and followed the direction of Kasturba Gandhi Hospital. With bare hands, the kebabwallas were casually fiddling with their red-hot iron rods, used for skewering the meat. One young man held a smouldering coal on his palm. Every stand had a table fan, which quickens the roasting time. The kebabs were spicy, smoky, greasy and delicious. The stalls are open daily from 7 pm to 2 am.

Where Urdu Bazaar, Near Jama Masjid, Old Delhi Nearest Metro Stop Chawri Bazaar

Nadeem Chicken Corner

What Chicken Fry (Rs 60 per piece), Fish Fry (Rs 240 per piece), Rumali Roti
Seller Mohammed Nadeem
Founder Mohammed Ahmed
Since 1947

Mohammed Nadeem

Lalu Kababee

What Seekh kebab (Buffalo meat; Rs 5 per piece), Tikka kebab (Buffalo meat; Rs 5 per piece), Beef biryani (Rs 80 per keg; it’s buffalo meat)
Seller Mohammed Habib
Founder Noor Mohammed aka Lalu Kebabi
Since 1980

Mohammed Habib

Beef biryani for Rs 80 per kg

Tajuddin & bros. Kebab and Tikka

What Boti Kebab (Buffalo meat, Rs 5 per piece), Seekh Kebab (Buffalo meat; Rs 5 per piece); Chicken Tikka (Rs 30 per piece)
Seller Tajuddin Kebabi
Founder Mohammed Zaheeruddin
Since 1970

Tajuddin Kebabi

Lalu Kebabi

What Seekh kebab (Buffalo meat; Rs 5), Boti kebab (Buffalo meat; Rs 5), Shami kebab (Buffalo meat; Rs 25 per piece)
Seller Mohammed Imran
Founder Noor Mohammed aka Lalu Kebabi
Since 1970

Mohammed Imran

Al-Nisar Kawabi

What Seekh kebab (Rs 5 per piece), Boti kebab (Rs 5 per piece), Cut roll (Rs 25 per piece)
Seller Mohammed Dilshad Qureshi
Founder Nisar Ahmad
Since 1990

Mohammed Dilshad Qureshi

Mr Quershi’s daredevilry

Ahmad Chicken Corner

What Roast Chicken (Rs 65 per piece)
Founder Arshad Bhai
Since 1998

Ahmad’s birds

Qureshi Kabab Corner

What Chicken kebab (Rs 20 per piece), Beef kebab (Rs 5 per piece; it’s buffalo meat), Beef tikka (Rs 5 per piece; it’s buffalo’s heart)
Seller Mohammed Ershad Qureshi
Founder Abdul Ghani Qureshi
Since 1970

Mohammed Ershad Qureshi

The kebab eaters of Urdu Bazaar

Kebab porn

Delhi’s great kebab street