City Monument – Ghalib’s Tomb, Nizamuddin Basti Monuments by The Delhi Walla - May 15, 20121 The poet’s place. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Opened from sunrise to sunset, the mausoleum of Urdu poet Mirza Asadullah Beg Khan Ghalib usually remains empty. His rectangular tomb chamber is in Hazrat Nizamuddin Basti, a central Delhi village named after a Sufi saint who lived here in the 14th century and whose shrine forms the area’s central focus. Mirza Ghalib died in extreme poverty in 1869. His verses and letters chronicled Shahjahanabad, or Old Delhi, at a very delicate point in its history. The Mughal capital was destroyed by the British following the 1857 Uprising. Ghalib was buried in the family graveyard of the nawabs of Loharu to whom he was related through his mother and also by his marriage. Until a few years ago, the tomb was visible from an alley teeming with Sufi pilgrims, flower sellers, beggars and goats. It was restored in 2009 by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture in partnership with Archaeological Survey of India and the Municipal Corporation of Delhi. Before the restoration, the boundary wall was not as high. Cats clambered down from the surrounding butcheries to snooze beside the poet’s tomb. Today, the cats are not seen. The street sounds seem to come from far. It is difficult to believe that this is the final resting ground of a man whose poetry continues to command a large following in the popular culture. The restored courtyard is paved with red sandstone, white marble inlays and ornamental patterns. A Ghalib couplet is inscribed on a marble slab in Urdu as well as in Hindi and English translations. When nothing was, then God was there, Had nothing been, God would have been; My being has defeated me Had I not been, what would have been Half-a-dozen graves are clustered at one corner of the courtyard. One of these tombs is believed to be of Ghalib’s father-in-law, Mirza Ilahi Bakhsh. Inside the grave chamber, sunlight enters through marble screens. A rare visitor might leave behind an offering of rose petals. The tombstone has an inscription in Arabic and Persian: A hai’yii ya qaiyuum Rashk-e-’Urfi va fakhr-e-Talib murd Asadullah Khan Ghalib murd Kal maiN Gham-o-andoh meN baa khaatir-e-maHzuuN Tha turbat-e-ustaad pe baiTha hua Ghamnaak Dekha jo mujhe fikr meN taareeKh ke, Majruuh Haatif ne kahaa ganj-e-ma’ani hai tah-e-Khaak [The Alive, The Eternal The envy of Urfi and the pride of Talib has died, Asadullah Khan Ghalib has died, Yesterday in sadness and mourning, grief-afflicted too, I sat by the Master’s grave with sorrow profound Seeing me thinking of a tareekh, Majruuh, A heavenly voice said, “Treasury of meanings is under the ground] [Translated into English by Vasmi Abidi] Where Hazrat Nizamuddin Basti Time Sunrise to sunset Nearest Metro Station Khan Market/Jangpura 1. Here you are 2. Peace 3. The disappeared neighbourhood 4. The world of living 5. A detail 6. Sleep well, Ghalib 7. Now, wake up 8. Ghalib lives on 9. Ghalib’s people FacebookX Related Related posts: City Monument – Ghalib’s Tomb Restoration, Nizamuddin Basti City Monument – Mrs Ghalib’s Grave, Ghalib’s Tomb City Moment – Prayer for the Poet, Ghalib’s Tomb City Life – Ghalib’s Graveyard, Hazrat Nizamuddin Basti City Monument – Chausanth Khamba, Nizamuddin Basti
Ghalib is one of my favourite poets of all times. His verses and poetry were amongst the first i learned and understood. He remains to be inspiration to millions for people of all ages and times. Someday i will visit his delhi..his ballimara…and will try to capture the essence of old times in my bones. ========================================================================= go haath ko jumbish naheeN aaNhoN meiN to dam hai rehne do abhee saaGHar-o-meena mere aage (ghalib)