City Monument – Subz Burj, Central Delhi
A mysterious blue.
[Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi]
In the evening, it looks frail. At night, it is barely perceptible. During the day, it is a dust-cloaked apparition.
The dome of Subz Burz should have looked subz (green). Instead, the tiles are blue.
The 16th tomb in central Delhi is an unsolved mystery. Who built it and for whom? We don’t know. A large number of Delhiwallas are unaware of its true name, and, quite logically, call it Neela Gumbad – the blue dome.
In the beginning, the dome was decorated with green tiles – some of them have survived to this day and can still be seen. A few guidebooks tell us that the Archaeological Survey of India replaced the green with blue tiles as part of a restoration project in the 1980s.
It is said that during the British rule the tomb was turned into a police station. Today a traffic circle runs around the octagonal tomb; a police station lies across the road.
Unlike other ruins in the city, you will not find loving couples in this monument. The guard often refuses entry. This should not distress you. The tomb stirs intense feeling when you gaze upon it from a distance. The evening view is memorable.
Where On the intersection of Lodhi Road & Mathura Road Nearest Metro Station Jangpura Best Time Twilight
A delicate roundabout
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