City Food - Jalebi Porn, Old and Famous Jalebi Walan, Chandni Chowk

City Food – Jalebi Porn, Old and Famous Jalebi Walan, Chandni Chowk

City Food - Jalebi Porn, Old and Famous Jalebi Walan, Chandni Chowk

The family sweeteners.

[Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi]

With the sudden closure in July 2015 of the historic Ghantewala confectionery in Old Delhi’s Chandni Chowk, it has become more urgent to record the daily grind of the area’s other legendary eateries. Propelled by this sentiment, The Delhi Walla spent some time in the kitchen of the roadside Old & Famous Jalebi Wala. The modestly-named establishment was founded by Nemchand Jain in 1884. The shop passed down to his son, Gyan Chand, who gave way to his son, Kailash, who is in the process of handing it down to his son, Abhishek.

The cook, Vinod Moly, performed the two most important stages in the making of the shop’s much-loved signature item – he deep-fried in desi ghee the snake-like coils of the refined flour batter, which he first squeezed out of a white muslin cloth; then he immersed the jalebis in a basin of sugar syrup. From there the thick juicy loops were dispatched a few inches away to the sales counter.

The work of generations

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City Food - Jalebi Porn, Old and Famous Jalebi Walan, Chandni Chowk

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City Food - Jalebi Porn, Old and Famous Jalebi Walan, Chandni Chowk

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City Food - Jalebi Porn, Old and Famous Jalebi Walan, Chandni Chowk

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City Food - Jalebi Porn, Old and Famous Jalebi Walan, Chandni Chowk

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City Food - Jalebi Porn, Old and Famous Jalebi Walan, Chandni Chowk