City Season - Signs of Winter, Around Town

City Season – Signs of Winter, Around Town

A nip in the air. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The world in Delhi changed on the morning of 28 October 2015. “It is finally cold,” said Arshad Ali Fehmi (see above), an Old Delhi resident. He was…

City Obituary - Meraj Ahmed Nizami, Delhi's Greatest Qawwal, is No More

City Obituary – Meraj Ahmed Nizami, Delhi’s Greatest Qawwal, is No More

Passing of an era. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Qawwali, Islam’s sacred Sufi music offered in the shrines of the Indian subcontinent, confronts its biggest tragedy of our time. Meraj Ahmed Nizami, the patriarch of Nizami Khusro Bandhu…

Mission Delhi - Ashutosh Tripathi, The Bookshop

Mission Delhi – Ashutosh Tripathi, The Bookshop

One of the one percent in 13 million. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] He looks as solemn as a nuclear scientist. Ashutosh Tripathi is the new face at The Bookshop in Jor Bagh Market. The Delhi Walla meets…

City Food - Browning the Onions, Hazrat Nizamuddin Basti

City Food – Browning the Onions, Hazrat Nizamuddin Basti

The pyre.   [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The younger cook is standing by the fire. The elder cook is peeling the onions. The Delhi Walla meets them one evening in central Delhi’s Hazrat Nizamuddin Basti. The cooks…