Azadi planner.

[Text and photo by Mayank Austen Soofi]

Such a predictable 15th August routine in the suburban world of gated communities. On the Independence Day morning, the housing society dwellers obediently gather at the community lawn. The hoisting of the national flag is followed by deshbhakti songs and paper-cup chai, after which they board the lift back to their flats.

And then there’s a very different Azadi anniversary in the gallis and kuchas of labyrinthine Old Delhi.

Friends, you ought to do this one thing tomorrow on the Independence Day. Celebrate it in the historic Walled City.

Old Delhi afternoon gets fantastically festive on “Pandrah Agast.” The area around Jama Masjid becomes like a carnival. The incredible jubilation has to be personally experienced to be believed. The countdown starts a few days earlier with very many markets stalls selling stuff themed after the national flag’s tricolour—bangles, topis, dupattas, T-shirts, kurtas, frocks. hair bands, ribbons, scarves and even friendship bands. On the Azadi day, the tiranga comes up everywhere, reverently hoisted on roofs and balconies and windows and doors and also on nankhatai carts.

Tomorrow, the market speakers that in other days are busy warning shoppers of pickpockets will instead be playing patriotic deshpremi songs. The zesty ‘Dil diya hai jaan bhi denge’ always goes viral along the streets, closely trailed by lump-in-the-throat ‘Ae mere watan ke logo.’

One hot spot is the Chitli Qabar Chowk, midway between Jama Masjid and Turkman Gate. It almost turns into a party venue with DJ-types manning every second roof. The Chitli householders become so senti by the Swatantrata Diwas feel that they sometimes let strangers to their roofs.

Of course you have to be on a roof to see the asli action!

The roofs get jammed with kite fliers. The air pulsates with the roars of revellers. The loud music is no longer playing only patriotic numbers, but also the latest Hindi film chartbusters, as well as old forgotten bhoole-bhisre songs. (Last year, one roof played Sofia Reyes’s ‘1,2,3!’ on loop!)

Afternoon ends with a lull in the mood. Don’t leave yet! Soon it is time for the incredible aatishbazi fireworks that light up the darkening sky into a thousand sparks, many times over. Azadi mubarak.

PS: This photo is from last year’s 15th August.