City Faith - 711th Urs, Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya's Dargah

City Faith – 711th Urs, Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya’s Dargah

The annual celebrations. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The four-day Urs ceremony, or the death anniversary, of Delhi’s 14th century Sufi saint Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya, starts on February 6. Urs means ‘wedding’ in Arabic and it symbolizes the…

City Faith – Sufi Christmas, Hazrat Nizamuddin’s Dargah

City Faith – Sufi Christmas, Hazrat Nizamuddin’s Dargah

The night of Ghusal Sharif. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Delhi’s most serene piece of architecture is the dome of Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya’s dargah. The devotees of the 14th century sufi saint find this bulbous shape suffused with…

Photo Essay - Bakra Eid Goats, Old Delhi

Photo Essay – Bakra Eid Goats, Old Delhi

Our dear departed souls. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] These goats will die tomorrow. Tomorrow is the Muslim festival of Eid ul Zuha, or Bakra Eid, in which animals are sacrificed to commemorate the legend of a devout…

City Faith - Ramzan for Coolies, Hazrat Nizamuddin Railway Station

City Faith – Ramzan for Coolies, Hazrat Nizamuddin Railway Station

The hardworking faithful. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Ramzan, the month of fasting, prompts culturally sensitive Delhiwallas to enroll for the guided food-in-the-night walks in the Mughal-era Walled City. For many of them, the festive lights and the…

City Faith – The Urs, Gharib Nawaz’s Dargah

City Faith – The Urs, Gharib Nawaz’s Dargah

The heart of Sufism. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] It is May 2014 and the dargah of Khwaja Moinuddin Chishti of Ajmer is hosting his 802nd Urs (death anniversary). 200 miles from Delhi, the 13th century shrine is…

City Faith - Mai Sahiba's Dargah, Adchini Village

City Faith – Mai Sahiba’s Dargah, Adchini Village

The mother’s courtyard. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Here you will meet Bibi Zulekha, the mother of Delhi’s 14th century Sufi saint Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya. The shrine is known among the devotees as Mai Sahiba ki dargah. Bibi…

City Faith - Hazrat Sarmad Shaheed's Dargah, Near Jama Masjid

City Faith – Hazrat Sarmad Shaheed’s Dargah, Near Jama Masjid

Old Delhi’s naked fakir. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Outside: a confusion of shoppers, beggars, biryani stalls and goats. Inside: stillness. Sandwiched between the imposing Jama Masjid and the chaotic Meena Bazaar, the Sufi shrine of Hazrat Sarmad…

City Faith - Muharram Mourning, Kashmere Gate

City Faith – Muharram Mourning, Kashmere Gate

The ancient grief. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Wearing black clothes, the men were beating their chests on the middle of the road. Mothers, sisters and wives, robed in black, stood on the pavement. They too were doing…

City Faith - The Eid People, Old Delhi

City Faith – The Eid People, Old Delhi

The morning crowd. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] There were no women but there were many little girls – along with their fathers — on way to the Jama Masjid to offer prayers. It was the morning of…

City Food – Iftar Snacks, Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya’s Dargah

City Food – Iftar Snacks, Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya’s Dargah

Breaking the fast. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The platter consists of a jalebi, a samosa, a litchi, a banana, a sliced piece of water melon or papaya, and a glass of Roohafza sharbat. This food is served…