City Food - Bittu's Moong Dal Samosa, Tiraha Bairam Khan

City Food – Bittu’s Moong Dal Samosa, Tiraha Bairam Khan

An unusual samosa. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] There’s more than one Eiffel Tower in the world. They are in Hangzhou, Slobozia, Tokyo, Les Vegas, Blackpool, and there’s one in our Delhi too. The purists however insist that…

City Food - Muhammed Hafiz's Biryani, Chitli Qabar Chowk

City Food – Muhammed Hafiz’s Biryani, Chitli Qabar Chowk

A culinary landmark. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] This gentle soft-spoken man is like the Jama Masjid. He’s always seen here, like he’s part of the landscape. Day after day after day, Muhammed Hafiz stands behind his giant…

City Food - Mr Mukhtar's Spicy Lemon Tea, Hazrat Nizamuddin Basti

City Food – Mr Mukhtar’s Spicy Lemon Tea, Hazrat Nizamuddin Basti

An uncommon street tea. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Such a small place, but packed with so many points of interests. Delhi’s greatest poet, Mirza Ghalib, is buried here. So is the legendary poet and musician, Amir Khusro….

City Food - Shyam Nashta Corner, Near Gurgaon Railway Station

City Food – Shyam Nashta Corner, Near Gurgaon Railway Station

A homey tea house. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The large counter is stacked with very many egg cartons. A steel tray is serried with green chili and onion pakoris. Another tray is packed with bread pakoras. The…

City Food - White Carrot Halwa, Sheeren Bhawan

City Food – White Carrot Halwa, Sheeren Bhawan

An unusual version of the same dish. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Winter means carrot halwa, means colour red. Not always. There is at least one place in Delhi that sells carrot halwa, which is not red. It…

City Food - Butter Chhole Kulche, Outside Humayun's Tomb

City Food – Butter Chhole Kulche, Outside Humayun’s Tomb

Delhi’s best chhole kulche. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The whole world comes to see Humayun’s Tomb. The monument must be beautiful. You ought to head to Humayun’s Tomb for another beautiful reason, too. Just outside the gate…

City Food - Mohammed Moinuddin’s Butter Coffee, Chitli Qabar Chowk

City Food – Mohammed Moinuddin’s Butter Coffee, Chitli Qabar Chowk

It was all acacia. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Some cities never sleep. Like New York. Like Old Delhi. Any person living in, say, the Walled City’s Chitli Qabar Chowk will tell you that the sounds of their…

City Food - Masala Dosa, Sadar Bazar

City Food – Masala Dosa, Sadar Bazar

New in town. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Small and unpretentious. If it were to be in Paris, it would have been thought of as a neighbourhood bistro. But here in Gurgaon, it is simply Meenakshi Dosa Café….

City Food - Radhe Radhe Karhi Chawal Wale, Anand Vihar

City Food – Radhe Radhe Karhi Chawal Wale, Anand Vihar

Cabbie’s meal. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] He gave up his career as a cab driver. But his white cab remains a necessary element of his new career. Vikas Sharma started his pavement lunch stall two weeks ago….

City Food - Randeep's Carrot Halwa, Civil Lines

City Food – Randeep’s Carrot Halwa, Civil Lines

A farmer’s cold season offering. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] December arrives this week. The chill is set to intensify. To a certain generation, the winter would be invested with sun-drenched courtyards. In these smoggy times, one hardly…