City Food - Telugu Thali, Andhra Bhavan Canteen

City Food – Telugu Thali, Andhra Bhavan Canteen

Divided curries. [Text band photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Will they build a wall? Will one side of the canteen serve Seemandhra sambhar and the other, Telangana biryani? The Andhra Pradesh Bhavan canteen in central Delhi is recommended by Lonely…

City Food - Migrant's Meal, Tagore Road

City Food – Migrant’s Meal, Tagore Road

By the homeless, for the homeless. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] It’s 9pm. The cart is barely visible in the dark. But the stack of lukewarm puris sits on it like a beacon, illuminated by the gas lamp….

City Food - Paratha & Other Snacks, Chandni Chowk

City Food – Paratha & Other Snacks, Chandni Chowk

Our culinary heritage. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The best sight in Delhi is of a heaped tray of mashed potato, chopped cauliflower, grated radish, shelled peas, scrambled paneer (cottage cheese); the best music, desi ghee sizzling in…

City Food – Shrikhand, H. Nizamuddin Railway Station

City Food – Shrikhand, H. Nizamuddin Railway Station

The sweet idea from Gujarat. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] It is a dessert from the west Indian state of Gujarat. In Delhi, shrikhand can be found at the milk booth on Platform No. 4 of Hazrat Nizamuddin…

City Food – Delhi Tea Party, The Attic

City Food – Delhi Tea Party, The Attic

Meditations on the chai. [Text and photos by Manika Dhama] For most Delhiwallas it is impossible to imagine a day that does not begin with tea. However, for a non-tea drinker like me, the allure of this milk, water and…

City Food - The Lunchbox, Around Town

City Food – The Lunchbox, Around Town

The love of the packed meal. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Your lunchbox is a guide to the geography of your soul. Take Delhi-based Babita, who goes by one name. The 23-year-old vivacious girl is a cashier at…

City Food – Burger Trolleys, Connaught Place

City Food – Burger Trolleys, Connaught Place

The street junk. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] This is for all those of us who find happiness in cheap and delicious junk food. The Delhi Walla is not talking of the golden arches but of the humble…

City Food – Nihari & Paya, Al Jawahar & Karim’s

City Food – Nihari & Paya, Al Jawahar & Karim’s

Old Delhi’s power breakfast. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Fish cutlets from the steps of the Jama Masjid, meatballs from Kucha Pandit, kheer from Hauz Qazi, qalaqand from Ghantewala, jalebis from Bhangi ka Katra, parathas from Qutb Shahi……

City Food – Iftar Snacks, Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya’s Dargah

City Food – Iftar Snacks, Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya’s Dargah

Breaking the fast. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The platter consists of a jalebi, a samosa, a litchi, a banana, a sliced piece of water melon or papaya, and a glass of Roohafza sharbat. This food is served…

City Food – Kachori, Around Town

City Food – Kachori, Around Town

Puff with pizazz. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] In South Delhi’s Mehrauli bazaar, close to the Mughal-era monument Zafar Mahal, the Sohan Lal eatery opens at first light. Out of sheer habit, the local residents start gathering outside…