City Food - Milk Shakes, Around Town

City Food – Milk Shakes, Around Town

Downing the city. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] When belligerent Bombayites assert their refusal to accept Delhi’s cosmopolitanism, they dismiss its people as “villagers”. They are right, up to a point. Delhi has 275 (registered) villages. The most…

City Food - Muhammed Afroz’s Bihari Jhaal Moori, Mathura Road

City Food – Muhammed Afroz’s Bihari Jhaal Moori, Mathura Road

Taste of Bihar. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] No doubt there are even more superior jhaal moori snacks sold elsewhere in town. But Muhammed Afroz’s offerings are unique. Just a year ago he came up with the idea…

City Food - Chankaya's Momos, Central Delhi

City Food – Chankaya’s Momos, Central Delhi

Proustian experience. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Generations of Delhi people grew up with the magic experience of the old Chanakya movie theatre. If you were very lucky you just could even manage to obtain a front-stall ticket…

City Food - Proust's Madeleine Cake, Around Town

City Food – Proust’s Madeleine Cake, Around Town

Experiencing a great novel. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Do you like the madeleine? The little cake makes for the most important scene in In Search of Lost Time, a novel by French author Marcel Proust that is…

City Food - Green Chilli Pakoras, Gurgaon Railway Station

City Food – Green Chilli Pakoras, Gurgaon Railway Station

Hot and delicious. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] It is a universally acknowledged truth that food always looks tastier than it truly is to hungry passengers in railway stations waiting for their expresses and mails. So one must…

City Food - Longtime Golgappas, Radhe Radhe Chaat Stall

City Food – Longtime Golgappas, Radhe Radhe Chaat Stall

Explosions of joy. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Just a few years back it was a wildly popular chaat stall, but without a name. Success builds on success. No longer a cart on the pavement, the Radhe Radhe…

City Food - Alam Tea House, Kucha Chelan

City Food – Alam Tea House, Kucha Chelan

Tea oasis. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Musty smelling. Pink walls. Toasted rusks generously smeared with Amul butter. And sweet milky chai. Alam Tea House feels like one of those Walled City chai khanas that must be a…

City Food - White Rasgulla + Double Roti, Around Town

City Food – White Rasgulla + Double Roti, Around Town

An unusual pairing. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Lalta Prasad has been selling this unusual combo of white rasgulla-and-double roti (white bread) that obviously appeals. As a street vendor he’s hawked the specialty for more than 20 years…

City Food - Vanshas Candy Cart, Sadar Bazaar, Gurgaon

City Food – Vanshas Candy Cart, Sadar Bazaar, Gurgaon

Childhood rekindled. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Some experiences belong to only premillennial childhoods. Like being able to spend, and enjoy, an entire day without the smartphone. Or, being addicted to unbranded candies, mouth fresheners and spicy churans…

City Food - Devi Prasad’s Chai Stall, Paharganj

City Food – Devi Prasad’s Chai Stall, Paharganj

The ideal tea stop. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Finally found! The pavement chai shop that arguably serves the town’s very best chai. But, first, let’s make something clear. There is no “best” chai shack in Delhi, because…