City Walk - Gali Kebabiyan, Old Delhi

The lane of kebab makers. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] People step into this lane for nihari and biryani, for burra and korma—all to be had at the “world-famous” Karim’s restaurant. Those in the know wade deeper, to…

City Food - Ram Laddu, Lajpat Nagar & Gurgaon

Snack pilgrimage. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Is the best Paris-Brest in Paris? Is the best Mysore masala dosa in Mysore? Is the best Modi Nagar ki mashoor danedar shikanji in Modi Nagar? To get the answer, you…

Mission Delhi - Kanhaiya, Shanti Niketan

One of the one percent in 13 million. [Text and photo by Mayank Austen Soofi] He is from Bhagwan Ram’s birthplace, but is named after Bhagwan Krishna. Kanhaiya shrugs. “My name was given to me by my mata-pita.” An Ayodhya…

City Home - Roommates in Ruin, Galli Chooriwallan

Roomies, a portrait. [Text and photo by Mayank Austen Soofi] So dark, so musty. It’s like a cave. As the eyes adjust to the dimness, this mysterious world exudes even more mystery. The jagged walls—unpainted, bare— are of long-ago lakhori….

City Landmark - Chauhan Bros. Stationery & Hosiery, Paharganj

The small shop around the corner. [Text and photo by Mayank Austen Soofi] The white hoarding, the blue and red letters painted on this hoarding, the yellowing shutters. All these adds to the shop’s engrossing ambiance. Merely looking at it…

Mission Delhi - Syed Iqbal Ali, Mohalla Qabristan

One of the one percent in 13 million. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The world is in transition, here at Crescent Photo Studio in Old Delhi’s Mohalla Qabristan. “It is to be rebuilt,” says Syed Iqbal Ali. “This…

Mission Delhi - Georgina Lazer, Holy Trinity Church

One of the one percent in 13 million. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] In blue sari and white hair, she at 90 is like a lesser-known but still a notable Walled City monument. This February afternoon, snuggled in…

City Landmark - Pahari Wali Mata ka Mandir, Near Prime Minister's Residence

A wayside shrine. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The strong afternoon breeze coursing through the hill is making the tree leaves shiver like a man in high fever. A bird hidden somewhere is cooing repeatedly. Yellowing leaves litter…

City Life - On Being a 'Hyperlocal Homer', India International Center

The Delhi Walla’s talk on International Greek Language Day. [Photo by Ismini Panagopoulou-Boudouris] Hello everyone, hello Mr Ambassador, and thank you Ismini for inviting me. To me, who lives more than 3000 miles away from Athens, the word Greece first…

City Hangout - February Light, Around Town

Bergman’s light. [Text and photo by Mayank Austen Soofi] Before finalising the locale for the movie Winter Light, in 1961, filmmaker Ingram Bergman journeyed through a series of churches in north Sweden, sitting for hours on the pews of each…