Trance music in Delhi’s most famous sufi shrine. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] Every Thursday evening music lovers gather at Nizamuddin dargah, the shrine of Delhi’s 14th century sufi saint Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya. They wait for the Nizami…

Sweating for the body. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] This is a large room with no window. The air smells of salty sweat. The walls are painted orange and purple. Stairs go up to a smaller floor area…

It’s no longer a blog. [Text and picture by Mayank Austen Soofi] The Delhi Walla is no longer a blog but a website with its own domain, thedelhiwalla.com. Please congratulate… Thank you.   You don’t like the new look? Blame my…

Jamia Millia University is home to eclectic figures. [Text and picture by Mayank Austen Soofi] What has American leftist Noam Chomsky to do with the burger eating, Levi-wearing, Gucci-buying, mall going, America-dreaming generation? Can the Palestinain icon Yasser Arafat be…

Holy and serene. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] Not as open and airy as Bangla Sahib gurudwara in Connaught Place, Seesganj Sahib is as serene as any spiritual destination should be. It was built in memory of Guru…

  One of the one per cent in 13 million. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] He walks to the young man and whisper in English, “Sir, I see you are lucky. ” The man stares at him for…

Simple and honest. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] Nobody knows how the deep fried balls of moong dal came to be known as Ram laddoo. It might have followed the Hindu belief that something with no name can…

The summer’s gift. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] On April 12th, 2010, the tree was bare except for four dry leaves. When an eagle flew past the branches, they looked bleak. The Delhi Walla was in Hauz Khas…

One of the one per cent in 13 million. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] Intently looking around, her eyes focus in on the the corner bench. A joda (couple) is sitting there. Sunita Pandit, 56, walks up to…

Mission Delhi - Kareem Khan, Nehru Place

One of the one per cent in 13 million. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] Sitting beside his secondhand books, Karim Khan, 52, lights up a Goldflake. The surrounding office skyscrapers of Nehru Place are looking like sleepy giants…