
City Walk – Chelmsford Road, Central Delhi
Saddest road. [Text and photo by Mayank Austen Soofi] Some places are too melancholic, and Chelmsford Road must be one the saddest in the entire Delhi region. Maybe because of its stark disparities. Elegant bungalows bordered by bougainvilleas; and under…

Mission Delhi – Hari Narayan Ojha, Daryaganj
One of the one percent in 13 million. [Text and photo by Mayank Austen Soofi] He isn’t from Old Delhi, yet an integral part of it. Hari Narayan Ojha, 83, came of age in the Walled City. Today, his sons…

City Food – Inter-Generational Sherbet Stall, Turkman Gate
A rose-tinted landmark. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Things change with time. Things don’t change with time. One March afternoon, Muhammed Rafi was sitting at his rose sherbet stall beside the centuries-old Turkman Gate. He had reopened his…

City Monument – Barber’s Tomb, Humayun Tomb Complex
The other memorial. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] After the sun dips into the western sky, Humayun’s Tomb gleams with special lights installed at strategic positions around the monument. The gathering blackness dematerialises the tree-filled surroundings, making the…

City Life – Barricade Trees, Sarojini Nagar
The city greens. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Hundreds of leaves here. All pitch black. After all, they are mere shadows. Shadows of the tree leaves falling on the metal bulwarks, the metal slow-heated by the day’s sun….

City Food – Game wali Kulfi, Old Delhi
Taste of heritage childhood. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] It’s gone. That’s how old people with clear memories of their childhood summers speak of it. But here is that same thrilling ice-cold treat, just around the corner, mobbed…

City Hangout – Shri Shakti Raj Park, Lajpat Nagar
The Lajpat nobody knows. [Text and photo by Mayank Austen Soofi] Begin, Muse, this poem to commerce. Sing it aloud, the way Homer chanted the names of ships and warriors of the Achaean army: Keshika Creations, Lucy Beauty Parlour, Apna…

City Food – Zina Tea Stall, Near Chitli Qabar
Staircase chai. [Text and photo by Mayank Austen Soofi] Staircase is obsolete. This is the experience of many of us living in places like Gurgaon and Noida. Days go by without spotting a sweeping flight of steps. The reason is…

City Walk – Gali Nawab Mirza, Old Delhi
A secretive lane. [Text and photo by Mayank Austen Soofi] The door is half-open. Inside, bright daylight is descending chup-chaap from the steep staircase, fading into a cooling darkness on nearing the floor. A young man is standing mutely by…

City Landmark – Central News Agency, Connaught Place
Passing of an era. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] There would be many, many (print) dailies, in many languages and editions, trooping in daily from across India and abroad. Where have they gone? The shelves and racks are…
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