Kashmir Diary – The Sufi Soul, Srinagar

Kashmir Diary – The Sufi Soul, Srinagar

The unhappy land. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Situated on the southern side of the Hari Parbat hill, the Sufi dargah of Makhdoom Sahib offers the most spectacular views of the old town. The Delhi Walla is in…

Kashmir Diary – The Faces, Srinagar

Kashmir Diary – The Faces, Srinagar

The unhappy land. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] A pizza-maker at Café Arabica. A police constable at the Jamia Masjid. The Delhi Walla is in Srinagar, Kashmir’s capital. An old woman at the Boulevard. A tailor in Maisuma….

Kashmir Diary – The Bund, Srinagar

Kashmir Diary – The Bund, Srinagar

The unhappy land. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] A pathway by the Jhelum, the Bund teems with Kashmiris, not tourists. The Delhi Walla is in Srinagar, Kashmir’s capital. In the afternoon, schoolboys sit on the riverside slopes, while…

Kashmir Diary – Inner Meanings, Srinagar

Kashmir Diary – Inner Meanings, Srinagar

The unhappy land. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Pigeons soaring up from Lal Chowk. Mist coming down the snow-capped mountains. A soldier with a gun, he is smiling. A veiled woman inside a bus, sitting on a window-side…

Kashmir Diary - Jamia Masjid, Srinagar

Kashmir Diary – Jamia Masjid, Srinagar

The unhappy land. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Mossy brick paths, grey pigeons, yellow poppies and smooth pillars made from the wood of Deodar. The Delhi Walla is at Jamia Masjid, the grand Friday mosque in Nowhatta, a…

Kashmir Diary – A Bloodless Evening, Srinagar

Kashmir Diary – A Bloodless Evening, Srinagar

The unhappy land. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The sun is setting behind Hari Parbat. The ancient temple at the top of Shankaracharya Hill has disappeared from view. The boats on the Dal lake are reduced to their…

Kashmir Diary - Martyr’s Graveyard, Srinagar

Kashmir Diary – Martyr’s Graveyard, Srinagar

The unhappy land. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The graves are covered with grass, irises and roses. The Martyr’s Graveyard in Old Srinagar is crowded with men who, it is said, died in the struggle for an independent…

City Reading – The Delhi Proustians XVIII, Indian Coffee House

City Reading – The Delhi Proustians XVIII, Indian Coffee House

A la recherche du temps perdu. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Today is the 18th meeting of The Delhi Proustians, a club for Delhiwallas that discusses French novelist Marcel Proust. Every Monday evening for an hour we read…

Mission Delhi – Syed Ameen Meer Dehlvi, Chandni Mahal

Mission Delhi – Syed Ameen Meer Dehlvi, Chandni Mahal

One of the one percent in 13 million. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The cat is observing him. Syed Ameen Meer Dehlvi is helping his wife make tea. The Delhi Walla is standing outside their kitchen. The second-floor…

Photo Essay – The Geography of Face, Around Town

Photo Essay – The Geography of Face, Around Town

Portraits of Delhiwallas. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Photographing a person’s face is like stealing his or her life – a moment of it. Walking through the city, The Delhi Walla makes face portraits daily. These are long…