Delhi Metro - The Wenger's Man, Blue Line

Delhi Metro – The Wenger’s Man, Blue Line

Life in the Metro. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] 9 pm, Saturday night. The Delhi Walla is on the Blue Line of the Delhi Metro. The train halts at Mandi House. The platform is almost empty. Only one…

The Biographical Dictionary of Delhi – Raghu Rai, b. Jhang, Pre-Partition Punjab, 1942

The Biographical Dictionary of Delhi – Raghu Rai, b. Jhang, Pre-Partition Punjab, 1942

India’s great photographer.[ Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] This year, Raghu Rai completed 50 years of photography. In December, Aleph India will publish his book Picturing Time: The Greatest Photographs of Raghu Rai. Born in Jhang village in…

City Style - The Man with the Peacock Feather, Urdu Bazaar

City Style – The Man with the Peacock Feather, Urdu Bazaar

Searching for the stylish. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] His eyes were underlined strongly with black kaajal. His get-up included a white skullcap, and a necklace of green plastic beads. He had one leg; one of his two…

City Monument – William Daniell’s Drawings of Mughal Delhi, Around Town

City Monument – William Daniell’s Drawings of Mughal Delhi, Around Town

Old views of an old city. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Camels wandering around Humayun’s Tomb, an elephant standing by the mausoleum of Safdarjung, and deserted mansions in Old Delhi. Every place looks so quiet and serene, especially…

Photo Essay - The Night of the Lights, Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya's Dargah

Photo Essay – The Night of the Lights, Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya’s Dargah

Colors of Sufism. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Orange, purple and green. These were the colors of that magical night. The Delhi Walla was in the Dargah of Sufi saint Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya. The shrine’s courtyard is always…

Mission Delhi - Sufi the Cat, Mehrauli

Mission Delhi – Sufi the Cat, Mehrauli

One of the one percent in 13 million. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The Thumri singer is seated on her writing chair. The cat is seated on the Thumri singer’s lap. The Delhi Walla is in Vidya Rao’s…

100 Things to Do Before You Quit Delhi – Sky & People Watching, Indian Coffee House

100 Things to Do Before You Quit Delhi – Sky & People Watching, Indian Coffee House

The perfect Delhi experience. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The sky always changes its color. It’s just that many of us don’t ever notice it. There are so many things to do when you live in a big city like…

City Season - Signs of Winter, Around Town

City Season – Signs of Winter, Around Town

A nip in the air. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The world in Delhi changed on the morning of 28 October 2015. “It is finally cold,” said Arshad Ali Fehmi (see above), an Old Delhi resident. He was…

City Obituary - Meraj Ahmed Nizami, Delhi's Greatest Qawwal, is No More

City Obituary – Meraj Ahmed Nizami, Delhi’s Greatest Qawwal, is No More

Passing of an era. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Qawwali, Islam’s sacred Sufi music offered in the shrines of the Indian subcontinent, confronts its biggest tragedy of our time. Meraj Ahmed Nizami, the patriarch of Nizami Khusro Bandhu…

Mission Delhi - Ashutosh Tripathi, The Bookshop

Mission Delhi – Ashutosh Tripathi, The Bookshop

One of the one percent in 13 million. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] He looks as solemn as a nuclear scientist. Ashutosh Tripathi is the new face at The Bookshop in Jor Bagh Market. The Delhi Walla meets…