City Library - Late Leila Seth's Private Study, Noida Sector 15A

City Library – Late Leila Seth’s Private Study, Noida Sector 15A

A vanishing world. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The Delhi Walla is in the private study of Justice Leila Seth, who died four months ago (5 May 2017). This quiet room, redolent with memory, “was her heart and…

Mission Delhi - Deepak Kumar, Outside Vidha Sabha Metro Station

Mission Delhi – Deepak Kumar, Outside Vidha Sabha Metro Station

One of the one percent in 13 million. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The Delhi Walla can’t cycle more than 30 minutes on an exercise bike, but rickshaw pullers somehow manage constant pedalling day in, day out. What’s…

City Food - The Perfectly Impure Dosa, Indian Coffee House

City Food – The Perfectly Impure Dosa, Indian Coffee House

The definitive North Indian version. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The romantics celebrate the Indian Coffee House for its turbaned waiters and torn rexine sofas (which, alas, have been replaced by steel chairs). The idealists, who believe that…

Home Sweet Home – Shamim us Din 's Cluttered Room, Gali Mochan

Home Sweet Home – Shamim us Din ‘s Cluttered Room, Gali Mochan

A whole world. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Old Delhi’s Shamim ud Din loves machinery. So much so that he decided, years ago, that he needed a tiny dark room near the family residence to store it in….

City Hangout - Gallery of Musical Instruments, Rabindra Bhavan, Mandi House

City Hangout – Gallery of Musical Instruments, Rabindra Bhavan, Mandi House

Music as objects. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Here, you’ll make friends with the Dama from Tripura, which looks like a tapering dholak (drum). And there’s the Sanitar, a kind of lute from Kashmir, with a hollow resonator…

City List - Daily-Wage Carpenter's Kit, Sadar Bazaar

City List – Daily-Wage Carpenter’s Kit, Sadar Bazaar

Delhi by list. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] You may know what it’s like at Central Delhi’s Sadar Bazaar, so congested you can literally crash into somebody. The Delhi Walla almost stumbled over Muhammed Jaafar, a carpenter sitting…

Julia Child in Delhi – Author Pushpesh Pant Makes His Cool Mutton Khichri, Gurgaon

Julia Child in Delhi – Author Pushpesh Pant Makes His Cool Mutton Khichri, Gurgaon

The great chef’s life in Delhi. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] Nobody dares to offers khichri to guests. This rice-and-dal combination is best eaten in complete privacy, as comfort food, or when one is suffering from an upset…

City News - Mona Ahmed, Delhi's Most Iconic Transgender, is No More, Mehnediya Qabristan Graveyard

City News – Mona Ahmed, Delhi’s Most Iconic Transgender, is No More, Mehnediya Qabristan Graveyard

Passing of a legend. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Mona Ahmed, India’s most iconic transgender person, died on the night of 9 September 2017. She would have turned 82 in November. Ms Ahmed was the principal subject of…

Atget’s Corner – 1051-1055, Delhi Photos

Atget’s Corner – 1051-1055, Delhi Photos

The visible city. [By Mayank Austen Soofi] Delhi is a voyeur’s paradise and The Delhi Walla also makes pictures. I take photos of people, streets, flowers, eateries, drawing rooms, tombs, landscapes, buses, colleges, Sufi shrines, trees, animals, autos, libraries, birds,…

City Monument - Hanuman-Ji's Statue, Jhandewalan Park

City Monument – Hanuman-Ji’s Statue, Jhandewalan Park

Inside the icon. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] It’s so very tempting to regard that gleaming metro train zipping past the Lord Hanuman statue as a near collision of ancient beliefs with the uneasy ethos of the modern….