City Monument - Green Door, Galli Chooriwallan Street

City Monument – Green Door, Galli Chooriwallan Street

On the death of a door. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] It’s gone. Until last week, the beautiful door was there. But not anymore. Nor the old house behind it. A black plastic sheet stands in place of…

City Monument - Ruined Graveyard, Deer Park

City Monument – Ruined Graveyard, Deer Park

Here lie the unknown. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] It has been raining on and off for the past few days, and the graves have gone mossy. The stoney ground is green and slippery too. But this evening,…

City Monument - Corona-Era Jama Masjid, Old Delhi

City Monument – Corona-Era Jama Masjid, Old Delhi

The edifice these days. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The gigantic courtyard is empty. So empty that even the customary pigeons are not there — remember how they would always be seen flying from the courtyard to the…

City Monument - The Mosque's Minar, Jama Masjid

City Monument – The Mosque’s Minar, Jama Masjid

Top of the world. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Pigeons have it lucky. They can simply soar upwards to easily mount the imposing dome of Jama Masjid—to take in a panoramic view of not only the Walled City…

City Monument - Mirza Ghalib's Statue, Jamia Millia Islamia University

City Monument – Mirza Ghalib’s Statue, Jamia Millia Islamia University

Poet’s spot. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Consider this. Although he’s one of the world’s great poets, spending most of his life in Delhi, there’s nary a statue of him in the Capital. How is it that Mirza…

City Monument - Muhammad Shah Rangila's Tomb, Hazrat Nizamuddin's Dargah

City Monument – Muhammad Shah Rangila’s Tomb, Hazrat Nizamuddin’s Dargah

King’s grave. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] He was known as ‘Rangila’, the colourful, but his grave is white. Mughal emperor Muhammad Shah Rangila‘s marble tomb lies in the central Delhi sufi shrine of Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya. The…

City Monument - Barhi Mata Temple, Paharganj

City Monument – Barhi Mata Temple, Paharganj

A broken shrine. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] This temple feels like a welcome aberration in central Delhi’s Paharganj—a district avoidable for its crowds and chaos. The small spire is dilapidated, washed of all colours, but looks gorgeously…

City Monument - Qudsia Begum's Gateway, North Delhi

City Monument – Qudsia Begum’s Gateway, North Delhi

A queen’s souvenir. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The arched gateway in north Delhi’s Qudsia Bagh gently summons the memories of an extinct world. The 18th-century edifice originally opened into a walled garden overlooking the Yamuna. Today, the…

City Monument - Holy Trinity Church, Turkman Gate

City Monument – Holy Trinity Church, Turkman Gate

A secluded sacredness. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] A handful of Christian families live in a pleasing coziness in the courtyard of old Holy Trinity Church at the southern border of the Walled City. Here’s a hushed world…

City Monument - Mrs Ghalib's Grave, Ghalib's Tomb

City Monument – Mrs Ghalib’s Grave, Ghalib’s Tomb

Homage to Umrao Begum. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] One hundred and fifty years after his death, Mirza Ghalib continues to be honoured by devotees who flock to his marble monument in Delhi. Nearly forgotten is the poet’s…