City Monument – Sunehri Masjid, Chandni Chowk

City Monument – Sunehri Masjid, Chandni Chowk

Remembering the Delhi massacre. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] It was from Sunehri Masjid that the Persian invader Nader Shah watched the massacre of Delhi in March, 1739. In his book The Sword of Persia: Nader Shah, from…

City Monument - Delhi's Vanishing Ruins, Mehrauli

City Monument – Delhi’s Vanishing Ruins, Mehrauli

The dying heritage. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Outrageous. No other word to describe it. A new garish pink building, still splotched with cement stains, now stands right beside what is probably the last important Mughal monument in…

City Monument – Khirki Mosque, Opposite MGF Mall, Saket

City Monument – Khirki Mosque, Opposite MGF Mall, Saket

Delhi’s romantic ruin. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] With its blackened walls, collapsed domes, and a covered hall in which natural light plays hide and seek, this is Delhi’s most romantic ruin. One of the seven mosques built…

City Monument – Moth Ki Masjid, Near Uday Park

City Monument – Moth Ki Masjid, Near Uday Park

Our neighbourhood ruin. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] As a mosque, it is dead. Prayers are not offered here. As a monument, Moth ki Masjid is full of life. The stone mosque takes its name from moth (beans),…

City Monument - Anglo-Arabic School, Near New Delhi Railway Station

City Monument – Anglo-Arabic School, Near New Delhi Railway Station

Far from the world. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] It is a secret world–exquisite without being ostentatious. The Mughal-era Anglo-Arabic School consists of a cluster of early-18th century buildings. That includes a Sufi shrine, a tomb and a…

City Monument – Black & White Ruins, Around Town

City Monument – Black & White Ruins, Around Town

The dream images. [By Mayank Austen Soofi] Last night The Delhi Walla dreamt Delhi again. It seemed to me I was in Chausath Khamba. The Jehangir-era monument seemed to have taken leave of its colors. The white daylight streamed in…

City Monument - Muhammad Shah Rangila's Tomb, Hazrat Nizamuddin's Dargah

City Monument – Muhammad Shah Rangila’s Tomb, Hazrat Nizamuddin’s Dargah

The ignored Mughal. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] He was known as ‘Rangila’, the colorful, but his grave has no color. It is white. Mughal Emperor Muhammad Shah Rangila‘s marble tomb lies in the sufi shrine of Hazrat…

City Monument - A Perfect Tomb, Mehrauli

City Monument – A Perfect Tomb, Mehrauli

The aspects of the unknown. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] A scholar might not consider it a monument. Just a chipped piece of stone, it is not known to convey any clue to history. In a city of…

City Monument – Roshanara’s Tomb, Near Ghantaghar

City Monument – Roshanara’s Tomb, Near Ghantaghar

A woman’s place. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Roshanara Begum lies buried in the ruins of this 17th century pavilion. Her own brother—Mughal emperor Aurangzeb—sentenced her to death after she was discovered with eight men at her apartment…

City Monument - Masjid Rukn ud Daula, Chawri Bazaar

City Monument – Masjid Rukn ud Daula, Chawri Bazaar

A dream in the market. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Everything beautiful in this secretive city seems to be concealed ‘up a flight of steep dark stairs’. This Mughal-era mosque, too, is such a revelation. Lost in the…