City Monument - Finding Agatha Christie's Grave, Cholsey, England

City Monument – Finding Agatha Christie’s Grave, Cholsey, England

A quiet home. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The air is cold even though this is summer. Lichens are growing on the gravestones. It is evening and The Delhi Walla is walking through the old cemetery of St…

City Monument - Mubarak Shah Sayyid’s Tomb, Kotla Mubarakpur

City Monument – Mubarak Shah Sayyid’s Tomb, Kotla Mubarakpur

The elusive memorial. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] This is true only up to a point. It is late afternoon and The Delhi Walla is walking along the alleys of south Delhi’s Kotla Mubarakpur village for more than…

City Monument - Grave Sufis, Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya's Dargah

City Monument – Grave Sufis, Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya’s Dargah

The anonymous relics. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The first one is near the entrance, next to the stand where visitors take off their shoes. Step into the courtyard and you’ll find another one, half hidden behind a…

City Monument – Sunehri Masjid, Chandni Chowk

City Monument – Sunehri Masjid, Chandni Chowk

Remembering the Delhi massacre. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] It was from Sunehri Masjid that the Persian invader Nader Shah watched the massacre of Delhi in March, 1739. In his book The Sword of Persia: Nader Shah, from…

City Monument - Delhi's Vanishing Ruins, Mehrauli

City Monument – Delhi’s Vanishing Ruins, Mehrauli

The dying heritage. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Outrageous. No other word to describe it. A new garish pink building, still splotched with cement stains, now stands right beside what is probably the last important Mughal monument in…

City Monument – Khirki Mosque, Opposite MGF Mall, Saket

City Monument – Khirki Mosque, Opposite MGF Mall, Saket

Delhi’s romantic ruin. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] With its blackened walls, collapsed domes, and a covered hall in which natural light plays hide and seek, this is Delhi’s most romantic ruin. One of the seven mosques built…

City Monument – Moth Ki Masjid, Near Uday Park

City Monument – Moth Ki Masjid, Near Uday Park

Our neighbourhood ruin. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] As a mosque, it is dead. Prayers are not offered here. As a monument, Moth ki Masjid is full of life. The stone mosque takes its name from moth (beans),…

City Monument - Anglo-Arabic School, Near New Delhi Railway Station

City Monument – Anglo-Arabic School, Near New Delhi Railway Station

Far from the world. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] It is a secret world–exquisite without being ostentatious. The Mughal-era Anglo-Arabic School consists of a cluster of early-18th century buildings. That includes a Sufi shrine, a tomb and a…

City Monument – Black & White Ruins, Around Town

City Monument – Black & White Ruins, Around Town

The dream images. [By Mayank Austen Soofi] Last night The Delhi Walla dreamt Delhi again. It seemed to me I was in Chausath Khamba. The Jehangir-era monument seemed to have taken leave of its colors. The white daylight streamed in…

City Monument - Muhammad Shah Rangila's Tomb, Hazrat Nizamuddin's Dargah

City Monument – Muhammad Shah Rangila’s Tomb, Hazrat Nizamuddin’s Dargah

The ignored Mughal. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] He was known as ‘Rangila’, the colorful, but his grave has no color. It is white. Mughal Emperor Muhammad Shah Rangila‘s marble tomb lies in the sufi shrine of Hazrat…