City Food - The Perfectly Impure Dosa, Indian Coffee House

City Food – The Perfectly Impure Dosa, Indian Coffee House

The definitive North Indian version. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The romantics celebrate the Indian Coffee House for its turbaned waiters and torn rexine sofas (which, alas, have been replaced by steel chairs). The idealists, who believe that…

City Food - Jain Lunch, Vaishali

City Food – Jain Lunch, Vaishali

A home-made meal with the Jalebiwallas. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Jalebi is in the air in Vaishali. The family The Delhi Walla is visiting descends from Nemchand Jain, the man who founded the legendary Old & Famous…

City Food - Kunal Gupta's Poha Stall, Lakshmi Nagar

City Food – Kunal Gupta’s Poha Stall, Lakshmi Nagar

The taste of home. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Kunal Gupta’s poha stall is a rarity. This spicy puffed-rice snack is a beloved tea-time staple at home, but it hardly qualifies as Delhi’s street food. The Delhi Walla…

City Food - White Rasgulla, Amar Colony

City Food – White Rasgulla, Amar Colony

The taste of light sweetness. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Every time The Delhi Walla visits an artsy home in this city and happen to fall in love with some exquisite table or chair, it turns out that…

City Food - Numberwalli Kulfi, Turkman Gate

City Food – Numberwalli Kulfi, Turkman Gate

Cold games. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Why are Delhiwallas always running scared of Delhi’s summer? After all, it is in these hot dusty months that the city comes into its own. We temporarily get rid of all…

City Food - Lallan's Chai, Galli Choori Wallan, Old Delhi

City Food – Lallan’s Chai, Galli Choori Wallan, Old Delhi

The best chai shack. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The only displeasing thing about Delhi’s pavement chai stalls is that the chai happens to be too milky, too sugary — to some of us at least. That problem…

City Food – Bedmi Poori, Shyam Sweets

City Food – Bedmi Poori, Shyam Sweets

The classic Old Delhi breakfast dish. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] Deep-fried, crisp and very puffy, bedmi poori is a bread made of wheat flour and ground urad lentil. Served with aloo subzi (potato gravy), it is heavier…

City Food - Muhammed Rafi's 40-Year-Old Rooh Afza Drink Stall, Turkman Gate

City Food – Muhammed Rafi’s 40-Year-Old Rooh Afza Drink Stall, Turkman Gate

Summer’s great hero. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The arrival of Delhi summer can be ascertained in a number of ways. A poetic way is to look for the yellow flowers of Amaltas trees. The Delhi Walla’s summer…

City Food - Kashmiri 'Noon' Chai, Around Jama Masjid

City Food – Kashmiri ‘Noon’ Chai, Around Jama Masjid

The pink tea. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] A freezing morning certainly, but no snow, no mountain, and no valley. Yet, you see people of Kashmir snugly absorbed in their traditional breakfast of the noon chai and lavassa…

City Food - Daulat ki Chaat, Walled City

City Food – Daulat ki Chaat, Walled City

The snow of Delhi. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] An abstraction, Daulat ki Chaat is more an idea than a dessert. A white froth, pop a spoonful of it into the mouth and it disappears. The lingering sweetness…