City Food - Winter Chikkis, Rithala

City Food – Winter Chikkis, Rithala

The cold season treat. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] These days it’s the smog that heralds the Delhi winters. The Delhi Walla is told that long ago, when the air was still clean, this shift in the season…

City Food - The Cooks of Shereen Bhawan, Chitli Qabar Chowk

City Food – The Cooks of Shereen Bhawan, Chitli Qabar Chowk

Where sweetness lives. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] This looks so much like a dalaan, the kind of courtyard only seen these days in havelis of yesteryears. And that room with three arched entrances is probably a traditional…

City Food - The Best Almond Milk, Quality Dairy & Paneer Bhandar

City Food – The Best Almond Milk, Quality Dairy & Paneer Bhandar

The rich elixir. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] There’s no getting around it. The Delhi Walla loves those sleepy markets where an entire day can be whiled away and where time seems to charmingly come to a halt….

City Food - The Perfectly Impure Dosa, Indian Coffee House

City Food – The Perfectly Impure Dosa, Indian Coffee House

The definitive North Indian version. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The romantics celebrate the Indian Coffee House for its turbaned waiters and torn rexine sofas (which, alas, have been replaced by steel chairs). The idealists, who believe that…

City Food - Jain Lunch, Vaishali

City Food – Jain Lunch, Vaishali

A home-made meal with the Jalebiwallas. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Jalebi is in the air in Vaishali. The family The Delhi Walla is visiting descends from Nemchand Jain, the man who founded the legendary Old & Famous…

City Food - Kunal Gupta's Poha Stall, Lakshmi Nagar

City Food – Kunal Gupta’s Poha Stall, Lakshmi Nagar

The taste of home. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Kunal Gupta’s poha stall is a rarity. This spicy puffed-rice snack is a beloved tea-time staple at home, but it hardly qualifies as Delhi’s street food. The Delhi Walla…

City Food - White Rasgulla, Amar Colony

City Food – White Rasgulla, Amar Colony

The taste of light sweetness. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Every time The Delhi Walla visits an artsy home in this city and happen to fall in love with some exquisite table or chair, it turns out that…

City Food - Numberwalli Kulfi, Turkman Gate

City Food – Numberwalli Kulfi, Turkman Gate

Cold games. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Why are Delhiwallas always running scared of Delhi’s summer? After all, it is in these hot dusty months that the city comes into its own. We temporarily get rid of all…

City Food - Lallan's Chai, Galli Choori Wallan, Old Delhi

City Food – Lallan’s Chai, Galli Choori Wallan, Old Delhi

The best chai shack. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The only displeasing thing about Delhi’s pavement chai stalls is that the chai happens to be too milky, too sugary — to some of us at least. That problem…

City Food – Bedmi Poori, Shyam Sweets

City Food – Bedmi Poori, Shyam Sweets

The classic Old Delhi breakfast dish. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] Deep-fried, crisp and very puffy, bedmi poori is a bread made of wheat flour and ground urad lentil. Served with aloo subzi (potato gravy), it is heavier…