City Food - Snack Cart Pots, Mathura Road

City Food – Snack Cart Pots, Mathura Road

The great Indian pateeli show. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] You would expect to find this kind of huge brass container on display in the museums on Rajasthan kings instead of a Delhi pavement stall. This pateeli for…

City Food - Mathura ka Peda, Kucha Pati Ram

City Food – Mathura ka Peda, Kucha Pati Ram

The charm of an out-of-town delicacy. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Some of the most universally loved Indian delicacies are identified with towns and cities where they were probably invented or given a special treatment — Agra ka…

City Food - Aloo Paratha, Barakhamba Road

City Food – Aloo Paratha, Barakhamba Road

Old food, new stall. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Every so often one runs across something in Delhi that is almost too good to be true. But the spiced potato mix served at this pavement stall clearly wins…

City Food - Muhammed Sajid's Sooji Halwa, Turkman Gate Bazar

City Food – Muhammed Sajid’s Sooji Halwa, Turkman Gate Bazar

The hyperlocal halwa. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Muhammed Sajid’s mithai shop in Old Delhi’s Turkman Gate Bazaar is as fickle as a moody chameleon. It shows different colors at different times of the day. In afternoons you…

City Food - Nankhatai, Around Town

City Food – Nankhatai, Around Town

A buttery treat. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] Nankhatai is like Indian English – a foreign import slapped, beaten, fermented and baked by us Indians till it becomes total desi. An egg-less cookie, its origins are traced to…

City Food - Maha Samosa, Delite Cinema

City Food – Maha Samosa, Delite Cinema

Delhi’s biggest samosa. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] What is Delhi without its tombs? What is a samosa without its potatoes? Boil it, mash it, mix in the spices, scoop it up into a maida casing, deep-fry and…

City Food - Jane Austen's Chai Stall, Bharat Ram Road

City Food – Jane Austen’s Chai Stall, Bharat Ram Road

The love of pavement tea. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] If British writer Jane Austen was still alive and happened to stumble across this unusual tea stall she’d probably express ardent admiration for its owner. Mahaveer runs this…

City Food - Mango Pickle Walla, Around Town

City Food – Mango Pickle Walla, Around Town

A pickle vendor. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] It’s hardly a secret that Delhi abounds with hawkers selling just about everything imaginable. Such as toothbrushes made from Neem twigs. Then we have Raju’s homemade pickles packed in a…

City Food - Gol Paape, Farash Khana

City Food – Gol Paape, Farash Khana

The tea-time tradition. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The Walled City is changing furiously. The old is speedily giving way to the new. But the historic district’s traditional bakeries have somehow been allowed to survive. For now. Unlike…

City Food - Delhi's Best Jalebis, Mehak Food, Kalkaji

City Food – Delhi’s Best Jalebis, Mehak Food, Kalkaji

The king of jalebis. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] “These are Delhi’s best jalebis,” he declares. “And believe me, I’ve tried them all.” The young man, a secretive street food connoisseur, insists that his name should not be…