Travellers' stop. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] "As well as Indian staples, you’ll find everything, from banana pancakes to pizzas, Mexican wraps and Israeli falafel… all of which can taste remarkably similar to the Indian staples. Come here for low prices and the travellers’ hubbub rather than gourmet dining” - this is the Lonely Planet India (2013 edition) introduction to Paharganj. Delhi’s hotel district used to teem with foreign travellers, with almost each of them armed with a copy of Lonely Planet (LP). Indeed, the corner bookshelf in any self-respecting Paharganj café stocked at least a couple of these much thumbed LPs. And then the coronavirus arrived early last year. As the new variant Omicron spreads worldwide, Paharganj’s backpackers are no