City Food – Jaggery Sherbet, Pahari Imli Food by The Delhi Walla - April 16, 20220 A rare drink. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] But why can’t he give us his recipe? Aqeel Ahmad turns his head towards the blurry bazar crowd, smiles like an enigmatic visionary and says nothing. A very special institution, he is the vendor of a most exclusive drink in the Walled City. To be sure, there is no dearth of drinks in the area’s summertime lanes. But all these nooks and corners are mostly filled up with shacks selling red sherbet. Particularly noteworthy is the melon-based Mohabbat ki Sherbet that has gone viral in the area (already featured here!). But there can never be enough of Aqeel Ahmad’s offering. His jaggery-based gur sherbet is one of its only kind in the
Mission Delhi – Hari Om, On the Road Mission Delhi by The Delhi Walla - April 16, 20220 One of the one percent in 13 million. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The white hair are standing spindly upon his head, ably covering the bald patch at the center. When the auto rickshaw stops at the Purana Qila traffic light, he turns off the engine, and bends down his head towards the left side, as if in deep thoughts. Perhaps he imagines the wait may be long at this light. It is 3 in the afternoon, very hot. The glare of the daylight hurts the eyes. He has been out of the home since 8 in the morning. Finally, the light turns green. He restarts the engine, his arms are firmly clutching the handles. The auto slowly picks
City Monument – James Joyce Tower, Ansari Road Monuments by The Delhi Walla - April 15, 20221 Landmark of literature. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] 8am, Thursday, 16 June, 1904. Place is Martello Tower. City is Dublin, in Ireland. This is the opening scene of James Joyce’s Ulysses. This year the modernist novel is celebrating its 100th anniversary since publication. Though only about a single day, the novel is notorious for being extremely difficult (sample a random line: “Listen: a fourworded wavespeech: seeesoo, hrss, rsseeiss, ooos.”). Most readers are said to give up by the third chapter (called the “episode” by snobbish Joyceans). But you can cheat your way to celebrate this book, widely acknowledged the greatest novel of the 20th century. Whether you live in Delhi, or Gurgaon, or Ghaziabad, simply head to Martello Tower. Not the
Mission Delhi – Reham Ilahi, Ballimaran Mission Delhi by The Delhi Walla - April 13, 2022April 15, 20221 One of the one percent in 13 million. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Seasoned machines clog up the space of the small room. Their owner is sitting in between. Dressed in a blue pathan suit and a mustard green topi, Reham Ilahi is finishing his lunch. In his early 70s, he takes off his dentures, and keeps them in the empty bowl. His serene, well-fed face with a long white beard now gazes out into the street, here at Gali Qasim Jan, in Old Delhi’s Ballimaran. Turning towards the equipments in his chamber, he says “these are karahi (embroidery) machines… each machine has more than 300 parts, and I make one of those parts.” He points to a school
Mission Delhi – Dhanam, Pragati Maidan Mission Delhi by The Delhi Walla - April 12, 20220 One of the one percent in 13 million. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The most endearing aspect about the picturesque foot-over bridges that fan out from Pragati Maidan metro station are not those bridges. But a cheery snack vendor who runs a kiosk underneath the bridges, on the broad pavement, beside the traffc light, below a spindly Ashoka tree. Dressed in a purple sari with fluorescent green flower prints, the vendor says she has two names. “In Dilli, my name is Daman; in Chennai, my name is Dhanam,” she discloses. These names correspond to her bonds with two cities separated by miles, cultures, and languages. Speaking in fluent Hindi, Dhanam says she is from Tamil Nadu capital, and is
City Food – Summer Mulberries, Munna Bhai’s Shop Food by The Delhi Walla - April 11, 20220 In search of the elusive berries. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] There are papayas, grapes, apples, bel, pomegranates, guavas, bananas and even the early mangoes. But mulberries are nowhere to be seen, here in the Old Delhi lanes. Though it is their season (a very brief one at that), don’t waste your time snooping around for the mulberries fruit carts—you’ll never find them. Except if you are very lucky, and spot an exclusive mulberry hawker passing by with one of those small wooden trolleys (outside the season, these men tend to sell lemons or jamuns). But they are so rare. If, however, you have no wish to wander around the Walled City lanes in the distressing heat, here’s a secret—a small
City Library – Ashis Nandy’s and Uma Nandy’s Library, Hazrat Nizamuddin East Library by The Delhi Walla - April 9, 20220 Couple's collection. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] One day, some years ago, an academic from abroad entered their house. He was courteously told to sit. He replied, “But where?” The books are on the sofa, and on the chairs. They claim the dining table, and also the double bed in the guest room. This is sociologist Ashis Nandy’s home. He shares the second-floor apartment in Hazrat Nizamuddin East with wife, Uma. This evening the couple are in their bedroom. She is with the Bengali translation of Ajeet Caur’s memoir Khanabadosh; he is with Joanna Bourke’s An Intimate History of Killing. “I have a huge collection of books on all kinds of violence,” he remarks. “For 15 years I have been working off-and-on
Mission Delhi – Ram Kumar, Civil Lines, Gurgaon Mission Delhi by The Delhi Walla - April 9, 20221 One of the one percent in 13 million. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Anyone can be sighted with them. Once even the World Bank chief (Paul Wolfowitz) was sighted with torn socks. Auto rickshaw driver Ram Kumar is no exception. He too is wearing such socks. Both the socks are partly torn. Both have holes on the heels. “But I cannot get new socks for now,” he confesses, saying, “There isn’t much earning in auto rickshaw.” It is a hot afternoon and Mr Kumar is lounging on his vehicle’s passenger’s seat. The auto is parked on a roadside, beside a shopping complex in Gurgaon’s Civil Lines in the Greater Delhi Region. Mr Kumar has no intention to shop. “To spend
Mission Delhi – Muhammed Afzal, Pahari Bhojla Mission Delhi by The Delhi Walla - April 6, 20221 One of the one percent in 13 million. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Old Delhi alleys are full of uncommon sights. People are often spotted with things not usually seen in other localities—a parrot in the hand, a deg on the head, a goat around the neck. But this sight is the most unusual. This evening a man is carrying a pendulum wall clock in his arms, here in Pahari Bhojla. It looks hefty; he appears to be panting with effort. “I’m taking it to a clock shop in Galli Chooriwallan,” reveals Muhammed Afzal. He decides to take a brief break to catch his breath, and carefully keeps the clock on the back seat of a parked scooter. “It
City Hangout – Couple’s Chai, Ram Ram Ji Stall Hangouts by The Delhi Walla - April 6, 2022April 6, 20220 A cute tea corner. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] It is astonishing that such a small place can trigger such a smorgasbord of sentiments. First, you notice the couple behind the counter. They are utterly silent, and yet seem to be chatting animatedly with each other through their eyes. Then you notice metal bowls hanging by plastic chords from the stall’s roof. These containers are filled with sprigs of ginger. Then you see a dainty chai kettle hanging in a similar fashion. And finally you notice the dozens of earthen kulhar cups stacked up on the counter. The tea stall in south Delhi’s Chirag Delhi village lies close to Shiv Mandir, the area’s signature landmark, and across the road from a