City Food – Kamlesh Kumar Saini’s Lunch Kiosk, Ajmeri Gate Food by The Delhi Walla - October 12, 20230 A moveable feast [Text and photo by Mayank Austen Soofi] What to do when one’s village is midway between the bustling urban centers of Motihari and Muzaffarpur? You accept them both as your homelands. That’s why Kamlesh Kumar Saini named his food stall ‘Motihari Muzaffarpur.’ “I’m from Bihar, and most of my customers are from Bihar and Bengal,” explains the gentle-mannered man, standing at his roadside kiosk, here at Ajmeri Gate. Nodding at the dishes heaped up on the counter, he points out these as the daily food of his Bihar. “This is aloo bhaji, this is machhli fry, this is karela bhaji.” A corner tray is filled with green chilies. Two customers critically gaze at the fried fish, enquiring about its background.