A vanishing world. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Here’s just the right place to while away a long horrible summer afternoon—for free. But, to be fair, the books at British Council also tempt, with a pleasing collection of…
The path of utmost happiness. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] All pathways, it seems, lead to Buddha. Which is a trifle ironic, since Buddha once suggested there is no path to happiness. “Happiness is the way,” he declared,…
The 198th death. [Text and photos sent by Sameen] Her name was Sameen, “precious” in Arabic. All her life she felt anything but that. If the legend about praying in front of the Kaaba is true she wished to ask…
The last of the fan-bearers. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Talk of dying professions. A case in point are those industrious pankhawallas who fan heat-stricken pilgrims at Sufi shrines in summer. Not long ago the Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya…
One of the one percent in 13 million. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] When Jyoti Rawat squabbles with her younger brother, their parents have been known to intervene. “Don’t fight with her!” they warn him. “She’s our rock!”…
For God’s sake. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] This is her iftar spread — plain channa dal, fresh-cut fruit and samosas. The elderly Yakuba Begum has a thick roti in her lap. She is patiently waiting for the…
Somewhere in Tibet. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] It has the charm of an improvised restaurant. As if a mother decided to turn the family drawing room into a part-time eatery one morning. Actually, that’s true up to…
One of the one percent in 13 million. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] “My name is Sanya.” The little girl introduces herself in English. It is early evening but half of the family is already done with the…
Romancing the stairs. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Grand old staircases haven’t yet suffered the fate of the bird dodo — extinction — but they are few and far between. Elevators and escalators are gradually taking over, downgrading…
The lights of Sufism. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The blinking spotlight was put up just last week. It first glows red, then green. Do not confuse this for a traffic signal please. This is the new lighting…
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