City Secret - Old Coins, Daryaganj

The mint of history. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] In a fashion, India’s dense history of invasion, destruction, reconstruction, colonization, re-colonization is immortalised in its coins. This occurred to The Delhi Walla one Sunday morning in Daryaganj’s weekly…

City Monument - India Gate, Place Charles de Gaulle

Delhi in Paris. [Photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The free online encyclopedia Wikipedia warns that Delhi’s India Gate should not be confused with the Gateway of India in Bombay. But during a trip to Paris, The Delhi Walla confused a…

Photo Essay - People Like Us, GB Road

Delhi’s red light district. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] The Delhi Walla has just finished writing a non-fiction book on GB Road, the city’s red light district. The hardbound edition of Nobody Can Love You More will be…

City Food – Yellow Dal, Karim’s

Simple but complicated. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] It is startling to discover that the capital’s most delicious yellow dal is to be found at Karim’s, the Mughlai eatery famous for its non-vegetarian biryanis, kebabs and kormas. The…

City Notice - The Delhi Proustians XXIX, Outside Wenger's

A la recherche du temps perdu. [By Mayank Austen Soofi] The Delhi Walla regrets to inform that the 29th meeting of The Delhi Proustians, a club for Delhiwallas that discusses French novelist Marcel Proust, could not take place as scheduled….

City Secret – Old Swiss Watches, Nizamuddin Basti

Finding lost time. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Here you get old hand-wound Swiss watches for cheap. Javed Husain Khan’s roadside ‘counter’ stands under a babool tree, at the border of central Delhi’s Nizamuddin Basti and Nizamuddin West….

City Library - Nandini Mehta's Books, Vasant Vihar

A vanishing world. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] One evening, The Delhi Walla knocks on the door of Nandini Mehta. In her sixties, Mrs Mehta lives with her husband Dalip in a bungalow in Vasant Vihar, a south…

City Life – Dangerous Bedroom, School Lane Flyover

Sleeping with the traffic. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] About midnight. A few men and a few dogs are sleeping on the concrete divider. “The (traffic) fumes prevent the insects from coming on to the middle of the…

City Moment – The Delhi Metro, Ghazipur Road

The beautiful Delhi instant. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] One evening The Delhi Walla was on the pedestrian bridge built across the Ghazipur Road in east Delhi. It was twilight, the hour of commuters. Below, the road swarmed…

City Reading – The Delhi Proustians XXVIII, Indian Coffee House

A la recherche du temps perdu. [Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi] Today is the 28th meeting of The Delhi Proustians, a club for Delhiwallas that discusses French novelist Marcel Proust. Every Monday evening for an hour we read…