City Life – One Year of Legalised Gay Sex

Celebrations in Jantar Mantar. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] This is the new Delhi. It happened in public. Men kissed men. Women hugged women. And cops just watched. On the evening of July 2, 2010, a year after…

Sign of the Times - Terror Attack in Data Darbar, Lahore's Sufi Shrine

Requiem for the dead. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] On the night of July 1, 2010, three suicide bombers struck in quick succession at the Sufi shrine of Data Ganj Baksh, or Data Darbar, in Lahore, Pakistan. 35…

City Life - Gay Delhi is Getting Straight

One year after the landmark Delhi High Court verdict. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] Time: Late evening. Place: Central Park, Connaught Place. Props: Trees, pathways, bushes and men — young and old, masculine and effeminate. Under unlit lamps,…

City Monument - Jama Masjid on a High

Allah is closer to Old Delhi rooftops. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] One afternoon The Delhi Walla went knocking around houses in Old Delhi’s Matia Mahal asking the residents, “May I please climb to your rooftop?” I was…

City Life - Honour Killings in Delhi

Love birds under threat. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] It is no longer happening elsewhere — in Pakistan, Haryana, western Uttar Pradesh or Bihar. The killings of runaway couples belonging to the same gotra (sub-caste) or different caste…

City Hangout - Kunzum Travel Café, Hauz Khas Village

A pocket-friendly haven. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] T-49. Ground Floor, at Hauz Khas Village (9650702777) – Though there is no crunch of hangouts in this historic village, anyone weary of The Living Room lounge, Gunpowder restaurant, designer…

City Food – Julia Child Makes Moongphali Cheewra in Vasundhara

The great chef’s life in Delhi. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] Meet the Julia Child of Vasundhara, a suburban neighbourhood beyond the borders of east Delhi. As a girl, Ms Child was a javelin throw star in her…

City Landmark - The Book Shop, Jor Bagh & Khan Market

The death and life of a bookstore. [Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] In my dream, I find myself outside Khan Market’s The Book Shop. I was told it had shut down in 2006 and that there’s a Swarovski…

City Hangout  - Dilli Haat, Aurobindo Marg

[Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi] Delhi’s dream village. In a city as disconnected from cowbelt India as Delhi, it is poignant to enter Dilli Haat (opened 1994), the food and craft bazaar spread over six acres and modelled…

City Style - The Classy Delhiwalla, Kasturba Gandhi Marg

Searching for the stylish. [Text and picture by Mayank Austen Soofi] One summer morning while walking down Kasturba Gandhi Marg in Connaught Place, The Delhi Walla was struck by this woman’s appearance. Amid a blur of tight jeans and salwars…