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City Food – Roadside Chai, Around Town

Tea Hour

King of brews.

[Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi]

As Delhi acquires the trappings of a modern metropolis, the carts dedicated exclusively to serving tea are becoming fewer. But it is still possible to stop in the middle of a busy road and quench one’s thirst for tea for just a couple of rupees.

Until early 2011, each morning, be it winter or summer, an old sari-clad woman – a migrant from Bihar – would pull in her chai cart at the entrance of Hauz Khas Village, south Delhi. As the tea boiled on her kerosene stove, morning walkers from the adjacent Rose Garden and Deer Park arrived to sit on cement blocks placed beside the cart where they read the newspapers and discussed the day’s headlines. Apart from the stove and kettle, the tea cart had plastic jars of fen and rusks, the classic chai accompaniments. Yet the chai was perfect on its own. With a hint of of crushed ginger, it was not too strong, too milky or too sugary. Sometimes a leaf from the neem tree above fell into the kettle.

Unfortunately, that tea woman has vanished. Perhaps she has returned to her village in Bihar.

The more boisterous experience can be lived at Ballimaran in Shahjahanabad. The Firdaus Mithai Shop, near Mughal-era poet Mirza Ghalib’s haveli, has been brewing sweet, milky chai for 60 years. When a customer wishes to be generous to his friend, he asks the waiter for the chai to be topped with malai (cream).

A curious feature of chai-drinking in Shahjahanabad is that it is drunk from a glass tumbler fitted inside a china cup. The cup’s handle protects the bare hands from the chai’s burning heat.

The park above the Palika Bazaar parking lot in the center of the colonial-era Connaught Place is a popular gay cruising joint. There, chai vendors are the only welcoming interference in the quests for love and sex. Moving with thermos flasks and plastic cups, these bhayyas are perhaps the only friends to the park’s lonely regulars.

If Delhi were a country, roadside chai would be its national drink.

Chai for the chicken?

Tea Hour

High tea with nuts

Tea Time

Energy drink

Tea Break

Starting the day

Morning Tea

Ginger-flavoured

Ginger Tea

I want your chai, and smile

Tea Stall

Chai stall

Tea Shop

Steaming kettle

High Tea

Tea labour

Tea Shop

The city is going to dogs

High Tea

Pavement refresher

Tea Stall

Just a job

Tea Shop

Steam engine

Tea Shop

Too milky?

Tea Time

Waiting

Tea Shop

Chai hour over

Tea Shop

Chai buddies

High Tea

So Shahjahanabad

Chai

Zen and the art of chai drinking

Chai

On the boil

Chai

Less burning this way

Chai

A life of chai

Chai

Chai sighting

Sight Seen

Careful

Chai

Chai trade

Such is Life

Chai in the park

I Want Your Smile

Chai chat

Chai Time

Chai street

Chai

Chai companionship

Chai

Hindoo holiday

Hindoo Holidays

Tea House

Chai

Chaikhana evening

Summit Meeting

Perfect

Chai

No school?

Chai

Tea please

Chai Shop

Ginger chai

Ginger Chai

Beggar’s addiction

Chai

That’s the flow

Chai

Readymade chai

Chai

Daily life

Chai Khana

Kettle war

Chai

Too strong?

Chai

Proust and chai

In Search of Lost Time

Pondering over tea

Tea Drinkers

Full protocols

Tea

Beginning to end

Tea Shop

Basic infrastructure

Tea Stall

About to boil

Tea Stall

Tea snacks

Chai + Snacks

Chai corner

Tea Stall

Tea-time loners

Tea

It’s hot

Tea

The old Hauz Khas tea mornings

New Day

The tea woman of Hauz Khas Village

Wake Up, Sid

Good day, sir

Tea

No milk? Cheating!

Tea & Suicide

7 thoughts on “City Food – Roadside Chai, Around Town

  1. Its ok that you are a MOOslim but everyone in India except you knows that Hindu is spelt with a U and not OO.

    1. If you could stop hating, and start reading, you would know that it is a reference to the way the Britishers used t….Aah! Never mind. As the old Poorvanchali saying goes, Bhains ke aage been bajaana..

  2. Chai is really Delhi’s national drink. Thanks for this wonderful post and turning ordinary into extraordinary.

    1. If it’s “Delhi” then it’s “municipal” drink. If you meant India, then only is it “national” drink.

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