City Faith – Angelo Grossi’s Churches, Venice
Looking for the cross.
[Text and photos by Mayank Austen Soofi]
He always walks with his hand on his heart. Angelo Grossi believes in what he calls Proustianity, but still, he attends the evening mass every Sunday at San Giacomo dall’Orio, which–to him–is the most Proustian church in Venice (see photo no. 12). He feels its outer wall has the colour of sunset.
The Delhi Walla meets this PhD student of American literature one morning at an appointed spot in this watery city. In his 20s, this Marcel Proust devotee is from the Southern Italian town of Putignano but has been living in Venice since 2007.
Mr Grossi spent the entire day showing me his most beloved churches in this city of churches. He has a profound knowledge of the monuments of Venice and is also familiar with author John Ruskin’s great work on the architecture of this city. We started with Sant’ Alvise and ended with San Moise. Here is Mr Grossi and his churches.
1. Sant’ Alvise
2. Madonna dell’orto
4. The ruins of Santa Maria dei Servi (now a dorm for students, the church was destroyed by Napoleon in 1815. Angelo Grossi lived here for four years as a student of Russian, American and Czech literature.)
5. Santa Fosca
6. Santa Maria
7. San Marcuola
8. San Giobbe
9. San Geremia
10. Chiesa degli Scalzi (under renovation)
11. San Simeon Grando
12. San Giacomo dall’Orio (Angelo Grossi attends the Sunday mass here)
13. San Giovanni Evangelista
14. Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari
14a. San Rocco
15. San Pantalon
16. San Sebastiano
17. Chiesa del Redentore
18. San Giorgio Maggiore
19. San Pietro di Castello (San Piero de Casteo in Venetian dialect)
20. San Marco
21. San Moise
22. (Inside Chiesa del Redentore)